Rock Climbing in Newfoundland

Climb Newfoundland

2010-05-27T07:29:00.000-02:30

Just wanted to help spread the word - Phill has developed an interactive site archiving new developed routes since the last publication of Leo's guide book. Do your part and post new routes up on this site. This is a great resource for us all and who knows, might serve as essential information for another revision of both the bouldering or routes guidebooks.

http://www.climbnewfoundland.com/

Potential

2010-04-15T16:46:00.003-02:30

We are creatures of habit. I have a morning routine and I stick to it to a tee, unconsciously. It just happens and I hardly have to think. I've gotten into a similar habit when I visit Mainface. Get out the pack, pop the trunk and get the stickclip, start walking, decent, and the drop the pack usually around yellow fever. I walk past so much cliff on the way and hardly ever look up. A few days ago, i did.

I've been climbing close to 5 years and I now have an eye for what is a climb and what isn't. These... are climbs. About 10ish years ago when mainface was being developed, some great great lines were put up. But those developers were, by no standard, finished. Developing at mainface has slowed to a crawl. Why, I'm not sure.

Below are a few pics I took the other day of mainface. They're at the south side of the crag that we walk by every time we arrive. I'm not going to suggest any lines, photoshop any arrows, or identify any cracks. But just look at this potential. These lines are easy to spot, tall, and look uber classic. Matt, Paul, and I went together on a drill towards the end of last year. We have some work to do. Now... what the hell happened to the weather, who did that? WHO?!

Erosion

2010-04-12T16:22:00.013-02:30

We've had anomalous winter, not a whole lot of sea ice around. Winter is accompanied by high seas - lots of waves. Without the ice around to dampen out the waves, they tend to reek havoc. There is a sandy beach close to where I'm from and spent countless days there. This winter left its mark there. It's still a beach mind you, but its reshaped and considerably smaller. Likewise, winter paid a visit to another place I hold close to me.

With an introduction like that, you're probably expecting the worst. But it's not all bad. I was down to mainface yesterday with Evan Martin. The decent trail is still there, but it's about 5~10 ft away from a dramatic washout. Down further, the damage exaggerates. There are some small boulders in the trail on the way down. Again, it's still quite accessible, but it does put a red flag up for the future. I don't suspect we'll ever be shut out. There's always repelling options from candy to yellow fever ledge... not to mention that us hardy climbing folk could always build a bridge or something, but all that's a few years down the road yet. Below are some pics I took today.

New decent in RED, old decent in YELLOW. Stay close to the left when approaching the bottom.

The only other thing I'd like to mention is Candy. The base of it has been dropped a few feet. It's nice to make this and the other 3 climbs a bit longer, but there's an issue with the first bolt. My stickclip is made from the typical Mr. Log Arm extension pole just the same as everyone else. It doesn't reach the first bolt. The first few feet of climbing aren't difficult, but due to the grade of this climb, it attracts new climbers. New, outdoors, without a preclip. Just doesn't sound good in my eyes. I spoke to Noel who originally put up this line and he has some plans in mind. Hakuna Matata is still good to go as the first blot was really low to begin with. Some pics are below of what I'm describing. I realize that I should have stood in the pic to give some perspective.

...In other news, A shout out to the Newfoundland Junior Climbing Team, they've done exceptionally well and I, among all others, are very proud of them. I suspect there will be an in-depth email sent out to the Wallntus mailing list in the short future. Congrats to all!

Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints, waste nothing but time

2010-04-09T14:46:00.004-02:30

Something quite concerning has been been brought to my attention, and I've noticed it myself. There's been some complaints that the climbing areas have been accumulating trash over the past few weeks. This is quite strange because the climbing community has always been very environmentally aware and have been very respectful of it. Bothers me to know this is changing... if only a little.

Leo recently had a meeting with the mayor of Flatrock, just to make him aware of the community of climbers that exist. The mayor was surprised to find out we even existed in the first place. He pointed out that him not knowing about us is a tribute to the climbers themselves. It's obvious that we are very non-intrusive group and leave everything EXACTLY the way it was when we got there. I know those who go out of their way not to break tree branches, let alone leave trash lying around.

I know I sound like I'm lecturing, but I don't care, this is concerning to me and others. So, here it is. Clean up after yourself. I feel as if over the past 15 years of climbing here, we have adopted the caverns' code and should continue to stick with it: Take nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints, waste nothing but time.

Achievement, Acknowledgement, & Respect

2010-03-25T12:35:00.000-02:30

Apparently people still check this blog despite the contributors well… not contributing. This post has nothing to do about climbing I've just got something on my mind. It's not sparked by any events that may or may not have happened over the past decade for that matter, just popped into my head this morning.

A few words… achievement, acknowledgement, & respect. I feel it's engraved into some of our programming as people to either seek for this, or just do whatever it is you do to come by it - either intentionally or otherwise. Some receive what they deserve, most don't. There are some who receive it and don't deserve to.

I was dreaming about watching a lifetime achievement award being given to some actor last night. (Perhaps this is why it's on my mind). I don't remember who it was - just some figure in a tux. I remember thinking (I think I actually grabbed the mic in the dream). What the hell did you do to better the lives of other people? Yeah, you're a great actor, you're quite good at what you do, but what have you really accomplished? achieved? contributed? Some 20 year old theoretical physicist probably has contributed more to our society than you ever will… Anyway, I'm going to move past this neggatory paragraph… but you get my point.

Perhaps those who accomplish most and deserve the respect and admiration of others don't need a hoopla event - or that's not what they're looking for, or even if they're looking for anything at all. What do I think they should get you ask? Respect without the required display. (I know you didn't ask, but phrasing a sentence that way makes for a good segway).

Allow me to recall a memory. I was in Squamish almost a year ago now with Paul. We were in the parking lot of the rec centre and I think Kaleb and Alexe were there as well. We had to head back in to Vancouver for… something. Picking up Nat if I recall correctly. We were very short on time. We all got in the car and I said "wait". I had to get something from the trunk - what it was, I don't remember. A few days later me and Paul were having a conversation on a topic similar to this post. He referred to the above story and I don't remember the exact words (the quotation marks will be deceiving - brace yourself) but he said something along the lines of the following:

"I know you're not an idiot, I didn't need to tell you to hurry up, nor did I need to question weather or not you needed *insert object*. You knew we were short on time and you decided that it was important enough to go get it. I had no reason to question your judgement"

I appreciated that.. a lot. I'm not boasting saying that I deserved the respect, but it's a great example of what I'm talking about.

… my thoughts just came to an abrupt halt. So that's my rant. No real purpose behind it. The end.

Offline

2010-03-03T23:14:00.000-03:30

The Google Analytics program set up for this blog shows that there are still a few people checking this blog on a fairly regular basis. Just a heads up to everyone, I will no longer be writing on this blog. If anyone has published anything they would like to save go ahead and copy-paste whatever you want wherever you want. This thing has been a lot of fun and the support I received from people especially those named Trevor, Matt, and Phil was overwhelming. Should those individuals wish to continue things go ahead. Me, I'm out of the blogging business. Goodnight everyone.

Paul Chaisson

NOTICE

2010-02-12T19:14:00.002-03:30

To anyone planning on going in to Wallnuts tomorrow for strength and conditioning sessions. These sessions have been CANCELLED. They will not be going ahead at a later date, they are off. I apologize to anyone for the 11th hour notice, especially to anyone reading this after showing up there tomorrow. If anyone reading this wishes to workout in this manner contact me directly and I will let you know when I am going to be in to do such things on my own. The more the merrier.

Paul

Saturdays 10-12

2010-02-11T18:18:00.001-03:30

As I mentioned in a previous post I will be starting up strength and conditioning sessions at Wallnuts beginning this weekend. The sessions will take place Saturdays from 10am - 12pm. If you want an idea of what is involved in these workouts check out the following video:

I'll do similar but with less of an emphasis on cardio as climbing is primarily an an anaerobic activity. THe focus will be more on weight work and some climbing specific exercises.

I'll do similar but with less of an emphasis on cardio, and less spandex, as climbing is primarily an an anaerobic activity and thankfully spandex free. The focus will be more on weight work and some climbing specific exercises. I have been doing a few of these workouts this week and have noticed almost immediate improvements. My core and shoulder stabilization are much stronger. That's what I want, defined improvements in performance. Nothing less. If you do these workouts and can't tell their working I will have failed at my job.

Anyone?

2010-02-06T18:23:00.000-03:30

I was talking to Nat the other day. The terrible teaching market, atrocious outdoor climbing (areas within an hour drive), and insanely high cost of groceries aside she actually made a decent case for living out there. Get this, she was walking to class the other day and had pause to take off her sweater before continuing on to a campus overrun with wild bunny rabbits. She was too hot. In February. Too warm. in February. Today I shoveled, as they say in this the land of real winter, a jeezley amount of snow. This is bullshit.

To make such contrasts in weather bearable I'm hoping to again hook up the highlining we started last winter. Highlining is officially the scariest thing I have ever done; you know you're going to fall. You are going to take a big, uncontrolled and probably upside down whipper. There is no security in your movements, no solidity. Everything shakes. You shake. We all thought it was going to be no big deal; what the camera doesn't show is that each attempt took forty-five minutes of standing on the line and almost going. I was put up as a guinea pig for this foolishness. Trevor was there recording away. Here is a brief profile of the absurdity that was last winter.

Who wants to try?

A quick note as well. I've been seeing a few tubes of liquid chalk around the gym. If you head down to The Outfitters and pick some up mention this blog and receive 15% off.

S&C

2010-02-01T22:44:00.000-03:30

Just to give everyone a heads up, in the coming weeks I will be starting up my strength and conditioning sessions at Wallnuts. Last year, hating regular gyms, I would go into Wallnuts to train without climbing. I had been doing an absolutely stupid amount of research into the fitness routines used by professional athletes. I was looking to increase my functional strength as opposed to the size of my muscles. Things worked well and others started joining in. It was good, and made noticeable improvements in my climbing.

I like to be there at 10:00 am, warm up for a half an hour set up for about twenty-thirty minutes, and proceed with the workout. The workout takes a little less than thirty minutes. It's amazing what you accomplish in so little time.

The workouts are full body and consist primarily of old school exercises. There is little muscle isolation, i.e. we don't do bicep curls, we hit pads with weighted bars as if we were swinging sledgehammers. There is very little rest, we work a different part of the body while one one muscle group rests. Every session I introduce different exercises. We never get used to these routines, it's hard every time.

The greatest benefit of these workouts is the mental aspect. Everyone reaches that point where they want to quit. Everyone. Every time. If you don't something is wrong. The question then forms: "Can you keep going even when it sucks? When it's hard? When you want to quit? Can you push you're body to continue when it's instincts say to stop? Can you keep your head together and follow through on what you have committed to do?"

During my hardest climbing efforts I have reached this point. Spittle is running down your chin, your arms are locking up, and you want an excuse to let go and keep the approval of those below who think you tried hard. It's the same place mentally. These workouts are practice for those moments; practice for when you're redlined on redpoint. You go until you can't go anymore as opposed to until you don't want to go anymore.

I'll update later with a few of the physiological principles I stress in these sessions, for now let me know if you are up for it.

Banff

2010-01-27T08:56:00.001-03:30

The Banff film festival went off this past weekend. Saturday was good, Sunday was great. Banff is one of the few times of the year where you cannot ignore the presence of the outdoor community in St. John's. For 363 days a year little pockets of people do their thing; Banff brings out everyone. I checked in with no less than forty people on Saturday night. I don't think that many people said hi to me in three years of high school.

As with any festival the selection featured the good and the bad. There was a valiant effort to make nordic skiing look cool; sorry, it's not, and just because you like it doesn't make it so. I like Star Trek (TNG baby!!) but I am fully aware it is not cool. The seemingly contrived speed flying (skiing + paragliding) replaced my skepticism concerning all things "hybrid sports" with a dropped jaw and messy underpants as I marveled at a ten minute continuous shot that laid down a blueprint for the most fun you can have in the mountains. You get to ski really fast and leap over crevasses. Superman would be jealous, he has no skills on the slopes.

The climbing films were excellent. As are, apparently, the French. Four French guys climbing in Patagonia who are wired to crack more jokes as things go wrong. Azazel is either a really selected edit or a profile of four individuals that you would really want with you when the shit hit the fan. Check out the link to see the video.

The showstopper for me -bias as I am- was Alone on the Wall, a profile of the young soloist Alex Honnold. His litmus test solos of Moonlight Butress and The Regular Route on Half Dome were uncomfortable for anyone who has ever yarded on a tips lock. One of the climbers described the latter as one of the greatest athletic accomplishments ever. I don't know how I would categorize this feat but I don't think you can really compare it to "regular" sports. As the filmmaker Peter Mortimer demonstrated, Alex's skills lie in his mental control. No sport on earth presents the kind of mental demands required to climb big walls without a rope. None. One goal of any sport is the perfection of technique, the perfect stride down the stretch, the perfect balance of weight coming out of a turn on the slopes, the perfect kick of the wall, the perfect punch. We strive for perfect but fatigue, mental chatter, and nerves pull us back to pretty good. To concentrate on that mastery of technique for hours with death consequence for crossing the line of unacceptable movement is shocking.

I was shocked at least.

Apparently, the excerpt of this film has been removed from the web. So here is a short of Mr. Honnold climbing with a rope in Indian Creek.

Alex Honnold sending in Indian Creek, Utah from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Ice, Ice, Baby

2010-01-25T08:00:00.003-03:30

Ok, that title was too easy. First ice! Apparently this is a very late start for the season – Last Wednesday Leo, Curtis, & I ventured out previously popular slack lining location, Stiles Cove. This couldn’t have been better conditions to start off the season with. The sun was out at our backs, the ice was super soft, & Leo had chocolate. We did a few TR burns on an easy route to get back into the headspace of ice. Leo then gave it a burn on lead to tune his mental focus once again. Nothing other than that to report on. Check out the pics below – photos by Curtis Jones - www.curtisjonesphoto.com

Tickets!

2010-01-22T18:20:00.003-03:30

Ok, I’m not one to splurge money… especially when it comes to shipping. I mean, you’re going to get what you got eventually, right? True, however when time is an issue (which, admittedly, I didn’t think it was) then it might not be such a bad idea to throw down a few more bills. As we all know, the annually anticipated Banff Mountain Film Festival is this weekend. I met with the organizers in August to get some advice on running my screen for the film. It was then I promised them a few tickets as door prizes. Tomorrow is the first night of the festival. I got the tickets today. Stressful week.

Today, with the help of Alexe, was spent going around to the sponsors dropping off the tickets/posters. One rope purchase and a parking ticket later, Booster Juice and Wallnuts Climbing Centre now have tickets ready for purchase of $5.00 each. The Outfitters manager wasn’t in today, so I’ll take care of that on Monday. So what are you doing now? Get off your computer and go buy some tickets! They make great valentine’s day gifts… pretty good for “hey, it’s Wednesday” gifts too. Here's some details:

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This film focuses on the local climbing lifestyle as it follows individuals through areas around St. John's, Flatrock, Manuels, Corner Brook, and Squamish, BC. The full feature length film will be shown right here for the first time in the INCO Centre on February 20th.. Join the mailing list and keep up to date at www.breachclimbingmovie.com.

Tickets $5.00 in advance, $7.00 at the door.
Available at:
Wallnuts Climbing Centre (57 Old Pennywell Rd.)
Booster Juice (272 Torbay Road or at the MUN University Center)
The Outfitters (220 Water Street)

Door prizes will be drawn at the screening
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Puttin' It Out There

2010-01-21T23:28:00.000-03:30

Haven't been around for a while, it pains me to post when I'm not climbing; it feels too much like just putting in filler, dribble so I don't feel too bad when I see the large time span between post dates. Not to go into details but recent events have left me with more free time during the evenings. Well, free time is a relative term, I get to decide what I do with that time but I decided to follow a schedule. Besides walking the line between living an oxymoron and spending way too much time thinking about the concept of free time I have been training. A lot. With the schedule I am on I spend about twenty odd hours a week engaged in some sort of next day soreness inducing work. It's been great to have that time to push things. To feel motivated to push things, and continue pushing past the New Years Resolution stage. "I will get in shape this year...for two weeks."

A lot of discussions this past week has focused on next summer. There is the possibility that I might be forced outside the city next year in the hope of transferring back in to a permanent job. This could be my best chance for some time to get in shape and do a lot of the things that have been nagging at me for, in some cases years. There are things I want to do this year, things that will require hard work now if I am going to have a chance of completing them. Call it a New Years Resolution or whatever, but here is what I want to do. I'll put it all out there to make things a little more real, to ensure I can't let myself off the hook later. What do you want to do this year?

1. Free Jekyl and Hyde
2. Climb several FA projects at Main Face
3. Onsight 5.12 sport
4. Climb several hard 5.11 easy 5.12 trad routes
5. Send Climb of the Century 5.11c
6. Climb The Grand Wall 5.11b
7. Send Lapidary V7
8. Climb Jacob's Ladder 5.10d
9. Tick of a half dozen classic trad routes at Main Face that I have been putting on the back burner
   - everything off the Drop the Mental Ledge
   - Last Chance 5.9
   - As Good As It Gets 5.10
10. Climb in at least three different provinces/states/countries. NL not included.

Below is a video of the super classic Bachar Yerain. This route is a life goal of mine, one of the ones I would love to do someday. Ignore the douchbaggery at the beginning. The climb looks amazing.

Hayden Kennedy on the Bachar/Yerian (5.11c R/X) from Black Diamond Equipment on Vimeo.

Online Climbing Guide

2010-01-17T10:48:00.007-03:30

As many of you will already know, I'm in the process of making an online climbing guide for Newfoundland. The site is only to keep track of new routes that have gone up since the publication of Leo's guide book and won't contain much detail on anything in there. This should give people a way to find out about great new local areas like Manuels other than just word of mouth. I'll also be expanding it to bouldering pretty quickly after first publishing it, as there's not really any information about that anywhere!

Anyway, work on the site is going very well and I'm getting close to being able to publish version 1, but I need some help from you lovely people:

1. I need pictures.
It'd be nice if the site could go up with some pitcures already in place and I can't just go stealing other peoples unfortunately! Any climbing picture is great, I need overviews of areas, pictures of specific routes, locations that are in the guide book or not... whatever you've got as long as its your own. If you can send them to me in fairly high resolution I would be very grateful.

2. I need a name.
If I had any real creativity in me this one would be easy. I need a name for the site, or more specifically a web address. And along with the name whether it should be .com or .ca.

3. I need a logo.
Along with my lack of creativity comes the lack of a single artistic bone in my body. If anyone is so inclined and feels like making a logo that would be wonderful. Probably best to discuss your ideas with me before you start work on it though. Even if you have an idea for a logo but not the means to create it then let me know, I have reasonable photoshopping skills if I know what I'm trying to make.

If anyone wants a sneak preview of the site to give feedback, or just to be nosy then let me know and you can drop over for a look or something. Thanks a lot for any help.

Phil

Be Dynamic

2010-01-05T17:10:00.002-03:30

And I don’t mean, “c’mon, man up and chuck for it!”… although effective for some specific situations, that’s not what I’m talking about. If you’ve read the Rock Warriors way be Arno Ilgner, you’ve heard of the phrase “Soft Focus”. Basically, attaining soft focus provokes a sense of adaptability while you climb. Not every move, pro, or hold will be exactly what you predict it should be. Yes, it’s quite important to make up a game plan and think about protection quite a bit before you leave the ground, but keep in mind that plans change. Often. How often have you been planning your night and said “ah, we’ll play it by ear”? Now, how often have you said that before starting a climb? I’m not suggesting throwing yourself at the wall with no previous knowledge of protection. That’s just stupidly dangerous. But I’m simply saying to keep an open mind, soft focus, and a sense of adaptability when tackling problems… of any sort. Plans will change, that’s a fact. Not that this should be considered a problem, because it’s not. If everything was planned for you every step of the way, you’d then be a passenger. I like driving.

Speaking of which, I’m perplexed. For Christmas, my wonderful mother-in-law-to-be gave me a customizable license plate frame. I’ve been debating on what message to send to those trailing behind me. I first choice was the obvious “I’d rather be climbing”… but that both implies I don’t enjoy what I’m currently doing, which (as previously advertised), is not true and also lacks the creativity that is sewn into the very fabric that is customizable license plate frames. Next, we have “climb on”. Closer, but still isn’t quite there. Finally, we have “I climb rocks”… which is my favorite of the three. But coming in third place when your competition out numbers you by one, does not have a copious amount of glory attached to it. (Yes, I did use a thesaurus during that last sentence, I’ve gotta keep up with the English teacher.) Alas, I put out a cry for help. Please leave comments with any suggestions you have. Later.

Pressure and Goals

2010-01-04T14:31:00.006-03:30

We're well into the indoor climbing season now and, after getting through a rough start of dreaming of those cliffs out in Flatrock, I'm starting to settle into a routine. There's two things that have really got me to focus lately and in completely different ways.

First off we're into the third set of problems for boulder league and I've been pushing myself to improve my bouldering and get lots of points for my team (go Buff'loOrange!). For those that might not know me too well I'm a very competetive person, I love winning... who doesn't! I don't think I'm a sore loser and if I try my best and we don't win then that's all good... but if I slack off and we don't win then I'll feel I've let the other guys down. Apart from the competitive aspect it's been a lot of fun doing long sessions with a bunch of people on a couple of hard moves and has really reignited my passion for bouldering. Well done to Alexe and the rest of the team.... keep the problems coming.

The second is probably the bigger of the two and is a lot more personal. I've set myself goals for what I want to achieve in next years outdoor season and I'm not going easy on myself. I know that if I even get close to achieving them I'll be very happy and it gives me a reason to go through the extended effort of training through all the bad weather. If you don't already have some solid goals I really recommend you set yourself some... I've found every improvement more satisfying now that I'm on my way to something.

To help reach my goals I've been religiously sticking to the training that Leo has formulated for his Sunday night sessions at the gym and I can already see a lot of improvements in just 5 weeks. I've never really done formal training like this for anything before and as much as I can read about what I'm supposed to do I don't think anything beats having someone actually lay out a plan in front of you and go through it step by step. We're moving onto power endurance next week and as painful as it sounds I'm looking forward to improving what I see as one of my biggest weaknesses.

Anyway I hope everyone else is finding something to keep them psyched through the rain and the snow. See you in the gym!

WTF?!

2010-01-02T13:07:00.000-03:30

A few weeks ago while spending way too much money on berries and frozen yogurt I picked up a copy of The Scope, the best of St. John's issue. I flicked through it and tossed it on the coffee table. The idea was to leave it around as Natalie was getting back after Christmas and we were hoping to head out and take in a few of the sights before she headed back out west for school. Yesterday the aforementioned Natalie was perusing the aforementioned paper and saw something I thought was interesting.

Climbing in Newfoundland was mentioned in the "Other Answers" section of the Best Blog category. Now this probably isn't due to a huge influx of votes for us; the same section of the of the Best Local TV Personality competition had "Dude on NTV does the back in history." I have doubts that more than one person was able to capture the whole that is Jim Furlong in so few almost intelligible words.

However our meager vote count aside, there is something about seeing something you created in the paper that says "Baby Jesus loves you." It's a touch of validation. The poor jokes, horrible editing, and at times atrocious grammar (you can't see it but I just spelled grammar "grammer" and I teach High School English) aside this thing takes a fair degree of work. I like writing, making bad jokes, and everything about climbing in this province. So a big thanks to everyone who makes reading this part of their week.

So, a big thank you to everyone who reads this thing and now that I know this competition exists, in all seriousness, I want to take one of the top three spots next year. Aim high.

Later

13a = Good? Whodathunkit?

2009-12-28T16:10:00.000-03:30

I am in Corner Brook for the Holidays, visiting the family and such. It's been great here, Corner Brook is a beautiful place, a quiet place. A family down the street has a snowboard propped up against a tree on their lawn with a for sale sign on it. They're asking two hundred dollars for the board and seem to have no worries about someone walking off with it. It's cool that something like this exists and amazing that five minutes down the road from this affront contemporary apathy is a really nice coffee shop.

Easily stolen snowboards aside, I am really excited to get back to St. John's; the hike I went on and discussed in my last post was very promising and since returning home I have spent some serious time doing research on possible climbing areas. There are quite a few to check out though. Phil is always game for doing the actual checking and I am wondering who else is up for it. Finding these areas is hard work, I don't have time to go on random hikes until I run into something so some (read: a shocking amount of ) leg work has to be put in. First of all, I use Google Earth and the "Bird's Eye View" option on Bing Maps to spot the obvious possibilities. The images imbedded in Google Earth are excellent for identifying rock quality and even seeing cliffs and boulders in the background of scenic shots. Once you identify a possibility it helps to type in an image search on Google and hopefully running into lady luck.

Recently I have been using the following map. It's a profile of rock types on the Avalon Peninsula. The idea is to look at what rock types are present at known climbing areas and seeing where else these rock types are present. Ironically the bands of rock around Flatrock are bands 13a and 13b. Which is hilarious. On the right you can see that these two types are conglomerate grey and red sandstone i.e. Main Face and The International Area. The lower the numbers the chossier the rock, and it's a fine line. Band 12e is the Black Head area around on either side of this area is some crap rock, 12d.

So, to everyone, especially the developers (all five of you), which bands of rock are good? Cemetery Face is in the 3 band, contrary to the numbers system the basalt and rhyolite components are promising. If this band is good there should be many areas on the west side of the peninsula. What is worth checking out? Researching?

There is definitely some stuff on the north end, but more on that after I get back and have a chance to explore a bit.

Later All.

Merry Christmas to all!

2009-12-25T15:00:00.003-03:30

Getting Off The Couch

2009-12-22T23:57:00.001-03:30

Merry Christmas, Happy New Year and all that jazz. Good? Okay. Last Sunday I was feeling lazy the weather sucked and I was sitting around wasting time on the internet, one of my worst vices. Two kicks in the as later I decided to check out an area I have been thinking about for a while. Unfortunately, the weather doesn't give a sweet baby Jesus about my motivation and I went post holing through the snow in very dense fog. I never made it to the faces my handy aerial photographs hinted at but I did make some interesting discoveries. They are as follows:

1. This area is fifteen minutes from my house and should involve a very short walk to the rock.

2. The rock is climbable, I saw a short face and thought it could be climbed. Upon closer inspection I came across half a dozen sport lines. Short though they may be it is encouraging as the faces I spied with my little satellite are big. I presume these routes were put up by Justin, he mentioned something about such a face at some point. Good on him.

3. My boots are not waterproof.

4. It gets dark very early nowadays.

5. Fog is frickin' dangerous. I was bushwacking and was able to follow my tracks back. If it had started snowing I would have been in the trouble. The fog left nothing for reference.

6. Dusk + Fog - Any Sweet Clue Where You Are Going = Go Home

I didn't get to this face, but the maps show it is tiny in comparison to what else is out there.

This short face has about six routes on it.

My wittle wabbit friend.

Fa La La...

2009-12-16T21:27:00.001-03:30

It might not feel like it, in my mind we're still somewhere in Nov, but Christmas is coming. If you are like me and have left your shopping to an uncomfortably late day on the calendar here are a few gift ideas for the climbers out there. Starting with the stocking stuffers and and moving on to the big show:

Gift Idea Available At Price Why?

Metolious Super Chalk Wallnuts approx $7-$8 It's going to get used, every climber

needs the precious white courage.

Metolius Climbing Tape Wallnuts approx $3 Handy when you need it, great for

throwing in the gym bag.

Mammut Liquid Chalk The Outfitters $16 Interesting gift that is actually

practical.

Newfoundland Climbing Wallnuts approx $15 Anyone climbing cliffs on the
Guide Book Avalon or southwest coast needs
one.

Wild Country VC MEC $22 Cheap and practical. Great for

Belay Pack those looking to start climbing
outside.

Chalk Bag The Outfitters $20-$35 The "This is totally you!" gift.

Black Diamond MEC $35 Carries all you need for the gym or

Bullet Day Pack everything for a multipitch. It

could be the world's best little pack.

DMM Aero Quickdraw MEC $16.50 These are the rare combination of

one of the cheapest and one of the

best reviewed. I have found few

better. Eight to ten should make

the sport climber who wants to

make the move outside very happy.

Black Diamond LiveWire MEC $28 One of the few that are better.

Quickdraw You'll need eight to ten. If you

have the money...

8m of Mammut 8mm Cord MEC approx $40 This and a little knowledge and

4 Petzl AM'D Biners they're ready to go top-roping. Sub

in any large rounded lockers for
two of the AM'Ds

Petzl Elios Class Helmet MEC $68 Simplifies the helmet buying

process by only coming in two

sizes. GET A HELMET.

Petzl Gri Gri The Outfitters $97 Sport climber? Get one.

MEC

Mammut Flash 10.5 mm MEC $193 So, they want to go top-roping

Rope huh; by definition it's a key

ingredient. An excellent all

arounder that will last them years.

If you have anything to add to this list post a comment or, better yet, edit this post for those that can. Tomorrow is the last day to get guaranteed shipping from MEC. Malls suck, avoid them.

Sorry for the formatting on the right side, oddly enough things turn out differently when you post them.
Later all.

Putting The Work In

2009-12-13T14:49:00.001-03:30

First of all, I would like to thank those who stepped up and posted up during my recent hiatus. I just got sick of talking about injuries and needed to stop dwelling on such things for a time. This last week I have started climbing again. Crimping hard is out so the goals are to just stay on the wall for a long time, climb lots, increase my overall fitness, climb more, and build a foundation for future training.

Coming back is discouraging, it's frustrating dealing with the fact that you can't do what you used to do. I find myself inexplicably pumped on routes that only a little while ago were too easy to be a good warmup. It's part of the process, you struggle through and put the work in knowing you'll get there. It's not a big concern, I have seen a few people take time off after an injury and extend that time until they're out of the game for years. Climbing at a significantly lower standard is flat out discouraging and putting work into something that should be fun is not for everyone. I like the work though. I like waking up sore, feeling spent, getting totally beaten down. It's fun to be on that fringe where you find out just how hard you are willing to try.

Times like these I realize that I am in it for the long haul. I am married to climbing. We went through the super exciting new relationship phase, we pushed through the boredom of the same old same old phase. We vacation together, we make long term plans. Thirty years from now I will still be climbing in some capacity. It's just the way things will be and I am looking forward to the years between then and now.

When you are in it for the long haul and can't do what you want to do, you do that which will help you in the future. Here are two videos of Matt Segal, in the first he is doing the "Mountain Athlete" training program in order to com back from an injury; in the second he is injury free and back to doing what he wants to be doing putting up 5.13 gear routes in Indian Creek.

Working past Injury with Matt Segal from john dickey on Vimeo.

Like a Prayer from renan ozturk on Vimeo.

Little Triumphs

2009-12-06T22:27:00.001-03:30

I just finished (still sweating) the fastest, steepest, and longest run I did since I've picked it back up a few months ago. I know, it's on an artificial track that's only about 4 metres long, but I swear I feel like I just climbed the Chief all over again. Not in that I feel tired, but in that I feel a huge sense of accomplishment. I just had to come out and say it. One step at a time friends.

The New Best Training Tool Ever!!

2009-12-01T12:31:00.005-03:30

Throw out your hang boards, burn down your climbing gyms (shit... outta work) eat your metolius power balls, and your grip masters and your rock rings, give your weights to a charity and lets get training.

First thing is first... buy a dog, not a small paris hilton, shove it in your purse dog. buy a real dog, minimum 45 pounds (you may need to replace the dog as you get stronger, you can up the weight about 10 pounds every month or so to see maximum gains). you can get one of these at the local dog pound or anywhere out da bay.

Then you have to go to Wall-Mart and buy a Kong Toy ---> ---> ---> ---> ---> --->

(the arrows are referring to the picture)

these run about ten bucks.

To use this amazing training tool, you insert the small end of the toy into the dogs drool receptacle aka the mouth then grab the large end in your hand (grab around the top so that the tips of your fingers lie in the divot between the large and medium ball)

then play.

This exercise will build forearm strength as well as entertain your dog, as well as build endurance in your forearms, as well as entertain you, and will build a better relationship between you and the dog you will have to get rid of in a month when you get way to jacked.

for an added challenge try giving the dog the big side and pulling on the small side... talk about a burn!!!!

Happy getting jacked!!!

Good Vibrations

2009-11-29T22:48:00.000-03:30

Motivation is a huge thing. Very huge. It's also important to find out where the hell it comes from. Well... perhaps I shouldn't say it's important, but I'm very curious as to where mine (and others) comes from.

I've been doing the final leg of filming for the movie which means I temporarily arrange the lamps in peoples living room and interrogate them for an hour or two. During this time I ask a few questions or tell a few stories of my own to try and pry away at the essence of why they do what they do. Perhaps the most important question is "why do you climb?" I have yet to ask that question and not get the initial response: "ummmm........."

Personally, I struggle with this question too. I've somewhat zoned in on somewhat of an answer this summer. Paul has a fridge magnet that I eyed a long time ago. It states, simply: "Do what you say you will do". That, mes amis, is something that we should all do. I've had the, I'd hazard to say, "problem" in the past of wondering what people think of me. And I mean, big time. Not that I don't care now, but it's considerably less. So, the easiest way to accomplish this (or so I thought), was to portray that I knew a lot and did a lot. I'd be voted off the island in quick fashion with this attitude.

Recently, I've set out to do what I said I would. Everyone has a huge goal set for themselves and hardly reach it. Weather they do or not is not really the point, but looking at the chiseled version of oneself 6 months down the road is motivating. I considered myself to the be in the best shape of my life on the Corner Brook trip last fall. I just felt great. I've since climbed stronger, both physically and mentally. But I just don't feel like I did back then. Explain that one to me. Seriously. My goal for next summer: feel as good if not better than I did last Fall. There, I said it.

I'm not stating that my motivation is coming from a iron/strontium mix (had to google that one) coated in plastic and paint, rather it's perhaps from fear of being the person who talks shit and doesn't do anything about it. Boys as girls: Do what you say you will do.

10 points to the first person who can tell me what's going on in the picture to the left.

Seriously, "Bouldering Competition"?

2009-11-26T18:49:00.001-03:30

I am scared of competitions at Wallnuts. I mean I am not a very competitive person by nature and usually shy away from opportunities to be evaluated and compared, but this fear goes beyond that. I am legitimately cursed, full on voodoo juju cut off a witch in traffic and she cursed my ass cursed. Twice a year something bad happens and it is usually within a week of either the Bouldering Competition (which really needs a better name btw) or Rockfall. I thought it was nerves for a while, my subconscious nerves concerning competition manifesting themselves in the form of waking up with crippling back pain three days before my first comp.

But, things continued in this vein. While living in Victoria I strained a finger and went on the DL for a few months. I remember saying to myself "No... can't be" and then going to the Wallnuts website and finding that yep, the Bouldering Competition was on the coming Sunday. Highlights from the past five years include: Having the legs of a ladder slide out and face planting me on the concrete 20 mins before the comp began. A rotator cuff tear. A car accident, on the way to grab some ice for an injured competitor. A sudden and intense bout of tendonitis that still flares up. Nearly breaking an ankle in an indoor bouldering fall that occurred three days before the comp, which I attended on crutches, and six before I left on a five week climbing trip. Route setting till the wee hours and then taking an unexpected and six hour long trip to the emergency room.

I am sincerely hoping this torn chesticle is this years bounty.

Anyway, the Bouldering Comp is on this Sunday. A lot of people besides me are scared of comps, and don't plan on attending because they won't do well. Suck it up, no one cares. Climbing comps are some of the most chilled out of all competitive events. It's just a good vibe, lots of people pulling extra hard and going till then can't close their hands around the free pizza. There will be forty new problems up and I highly recommend trying them out with lots of people to shout encouragement. These events are great for people who climb in the V2 range. There's lots to do and a great vibe to get you psyched to come in later and do more.

Hope to see lots of people out. It will be fun, you like having fun don't you?

P.S. Avoid looking up "injured" on Google images. Not the worst, but not great

The Recovery Process is Cold

2009-11-23T21:33:00.001-03:30

It's recovery time. Anyone who's been injured to a point that they can't climb knows what I'm talking about. There are a lot of analogies I could make, many stories I could tell, but the one basic problem that all those things attempt to relate is this basic fact: When you are injured you can't do shit.

If you normally sit on the couch all day then it's not such a big deal but if you injured yourself doing something then it stands to reason that there are things you want to do, but you can't do shit. It can be surprising what you can't do too. I tore the my chest muscle. I thought I would run (the jiggly is too much), do some core work (apparently I have abs in my chest cuz it gets tight too), sleeping on my right side is uncomfortable. Recovery is a slow thing, everyday things like showering and getting in and out of your beater of a car hurt. Slowly this turns to discomfort and climbing hurts. Then climbing lightly is a little uncomfortable and climbing hard hurts. You go through this process for what can be a long time. I am hoping this torn chesticle is just someone's way of saying "Fix your damn finger while your at it, dumbass."

Along this line of thought I give to those who may be injured or injured in the near future the cold water therapy method. It's actually pretty cool, literally (that was sad wasn't it?). Basically, for finger injuries, you dunk your hand in a bucket, or in my case large pot, of cold as the tap can make it water with four or five ice cubes added. Apparently, the body goes, "Whoa that's cold" and does it's thing of sucking blood into the core to preserve the vital organs. After about five minutes though the body rightfully says, "Okay, I'm probably not going to die from this so I should spare the blood and warm that hand back up before it falls off." Cool, literally (such a loser). In attempting to warm the hand up the body increases bloodflow to the hand at around five times the normal rate and wonderful healing blood cycles through improving the healing time of notoriously hard to stimulate bloodflow to tweaked tendons and pulleys. To be effective it is recommended that you keep your hand dunked for at least a half an hour.

This process, like the healing one is a little weird. After about five or six minutes you can begin to feel the bloodflow increase. After twenty minutes the muscles of your hand, especially the large one just down from the thumb on the palm side, swell and are hard to move. I don't like it when I can't see something working. I can see this working.

As a side note; if you do injure a finger make sure the inflammation has gone down or this will just prolong the inflammation and do more harm than good. You can help get rid of the inflammation through doses of good ol' Vitamin I aka Ibuprofen and Ice. Here's where I got this information from.

Dave MacLeod is the man, author of the world's first and only E11 (5.14c R/X) and probably the best all around climber on the planet right now. He is a training machine and I encourage everyone to check his online coaching blog we have linked on the left side of your screen.

Just Don't Drink It... Linegar

2009-11-21T21:55:00.002-03:30

When I was a kid I would always save the good stuff till last. I would eat the bottom of the brownie and save the gooey frosting goodness for one sugar headache inducing bite. I was a weird kid. Anyway, I still have little leftovers of my childhood peculiarities. A year ago I was bumming around the Gunks and picked up a tube of liquid chalk at the famous Rock&Snow. I used it a few times but didn't want to use up the precious precious white goo on just any climb. It had to be a redpoint attempt, a hard onsight attempt, something that would require every degree of friction I could pull out of my skin. A year later and I've still got three quarters of the bottle left. But low and behold what I spied down to The Outfitters the other day, Mammut Liquid Chalk. No more being thrifty, St. John's actually has climbing gear beyond the basics.

There is a reason I have been saving this stuff. One of the guys I was climbing with out west used it quite a bit and following his lead I broke my bottle out. Soon I was stating sentences with "Dude, you gotta try this..." I sweat a lot and go through more white powder than a Hollywood Hills party circa 1984. The liquid chalk brings out the doubters, who soon become believers, and quickly buyers. It is great for long boulder problems or routes with a cruxy start, i.e. everything at Flatrock. The concept is pretty simple. Chalk mixed with the super drying agent isopropal alcohol. A few chemicals with unpronounceable names keep the mix mixed and the friction high. I am a big fan of the stuff and haven't found a person yet who hasn't been won over by a simple nickel sized puddle in their waiting hands. I find the gym, especially once you are higher than ten feet, to be hot in the winters and spend far too much time and energy stopping and dipping both hands. It's not magic but it does help and I can use all the help I can get.

Later

Later Buddy

2009-11-19T21:43:00.002-03:30

I had a real nice plan going. I was going to work up to climbing four days a week, start in on the training, climb hard, feed Africa, send untold number of projects, take a break, and then so it all again before next season. Well, maybe only feed Africa once. You've got to spread that kind of generosity out. Anyway, the plan's fallen apart. I can feel an old finger injury acting up. I got sucked into spending too long at the gym and jumped into the hardness a little early. Little things happen, I am also nursing a slightly torn chest muscle and strained biceps, but a full blown finger injury means months of rest. MONTHS!! This season I realized just how much I love climbing, the peculiar way we practice moving over stone and sometimes plastic. I want to climb, a lot. I went full bore into it like a chubby kid in toffee land and now I'm coming down off the sugar rush and feeling the aches.

I can climb if I am careful, but that means not doing the things I want to do. Dave was talking about going outside tomorrow to boulder and I can't because bouldering in the cold combined with no real warmup is going to result in something worse than I've got now. I need to take even more time, which really kind of blows. Anyway enough about my problems.

Matt Scott moved to Stephenville today to attend firefighting school. Matt is one of the most active members of the climbing community logging more days outside this season than anyone, with one possible exception. What is a sure thing is that he climbed more hard routes this year than anybody. He got deep into the trad thing and put up two first ascents both of which are contenders for the hardest trad climbs on the Avalon. Body Karate and Farewell to Arms Direct both go in the .11d-.12a range. Sending these kinds of routes even three years ago was just unheard of. He also managed surprise ascents of two mental testpieces Dark Water 5.10b and Something Heinous 5.10d. Most importantly he was super psyched this season and this attitude helped people like myself to push that much harder. So a big thanks goes out to Matt Scott for all the good days. Luckily he gets back just in time for the good weather next season.

I'm going to need to get healed up and train if for nothing else so I can keep up come summer.

P.S.S.G.S.

2009-11-17T14:15:00.005-03:30

I've spent a lot of time reading the blog and making long winded replies to other peoples entries, but now Trevor has pressed the magic buttons and given me access to post things of my own. I thought as my first installment I'd like to get away from this discussion about gym routes before it turns sour and say a little about an "issue" that's been going around my head for a few days, and I hope some others have opinions on it as well. The issue in question would be route grades.

I had the age old discussion the other day with Paul and both took the stance that a route of a particular grade would be easier in the gym than at Flatrock. Afterwards, as is so often the case, I started to doubt myself and really think about this in more depth; are the grades actually different or does it just seem that way? Personally I've come to think that we're all kidding ourselves, just like with how scary Flatrock is.

If we take a step back to look at how we grade routes we have to remember our own strengths and weaknesses; just because a move is easy for one person doesn't mean it's easy for everyone. I see myself as pretty much an all rounder, no huge strengths or weaknesses, maybe a bit better at balancy moves and a bit worse at endurance, but generally I do a bit of everything. Maybe this is why Kaleb brought about the Phil Stennett Standardised Grading System (P.S.S.G.S.) or maybe it's because I'm in the gym practically every day climbing anything and everything.

Due to horrible Newfie weather we spend a large portion of our year climbing on the delightful plastic of Wallnuts and I think to all of us this may have become our strength, or, depending on how you look at it, our weakness. We know the walls, the features, the minds of the route setters and when we go outside all of this changes; we're in unfamiliar territory and expecting the climbs to feel just the same. Now add on to this the fact that you may well be leading, either sport or trad, and you've got yourself a few good reasons why this might feel hard even though it's not really any more difficult than the gym.

I've been trying to draw some direct comparisons between routes and of course it's pretty much futile but I'll try a couple. Now with these I'm talking about onsights or flashes where I've maybe just belayed someone up a route... not something I've projected for a week or been given every bit of beta on.

Hysteria (5.10c) a route I flashed around mid-summer this year. In the gym I can sometimes flash or onsight a route of this grade, but it's by no means a sure thing. I've flashed other routes around this difficulty at Flatrock (eg. Easy Company) but others I struggle on (eg. Something Heinous).
Sledgehammer (5.11a) was again a route I tried mid-summer and besides the bouldery start I only fell a couple of times. This is almost exactly how a route of this grade would go for me indoors, but on this one the only reason I fell (after the bouldery start) was my aforementioned lack of endurance.

If you think about climbs you've done indoors and out, do they really seem that different in terms of difficulty when comparing like for like? Obviously a 5.10 trad lead is gonna be harder than a 5.11 in the gym, but do that route on top rope (not mock lead) and what would it really be like?

Bouldering is another story here... I honestly don't know much about it but I'd like to know what others think. From what I understand the grades in the gym are WAY easier than outside... Is it true? If so what's the benefit of this? Why not keep the standard?

Apologies for the wall of text - I promise I'll find some pretty pictures next time.

Be The Newbie

2009-11-16T10:59:00.000-03:30

When I started this blog, literally the as I was going through the settings I wondered how long it would be before I signed on with the customary "long time, no blog." This past week has been the lowest point in terms of activity since posts started going up. We're still not doing too bad though, and have averaged a post every two days for the last four and a half months.

Anyway, I was very unmotivated getting back into the indoor scene. Nagging injuries and the same old same old left me feeling well, very little actually. Things have swung around again though. Matt put up a new route that is just the right difficulty to pull me in. It goes somewhere in the 12b range, though I am in terrible shape at the moment and my perception of grades may a tad askew. That's all it takes though, one route, a goal, something to pour energy into. Honestly, I want like ten routes in this difficulty range. Many things to work equals much progress.

I also worked with the Junior Team last night for the first time since last May. It's really exciting to do this kind of work again, it's a challenge what with the organizing, planning, setting up, and motivating each climber to push that much harder. I am really big on the mental aspects of climbing and how these affect a person's climbing performance. One thing we talked about last night was the beginner's mentality.

When a new climber comes into the gym they get super excited and get on everything. We've all seen them, hangdogging for glory up a 5.7 roof, looking at the effort they go through one could make the honest mistake of thinking those jugs are lined with money and supermodels. The newbies try hard and get on everything because they don't know what hard is, they have no notion of what they should be able to do. After a week or two the newbs make it up the 5.7 easily and, despite the decided lack of supermodels, they still have a smile on their face. Over a period of about four to six months they improve fast eventually making terribly noisy, toe dragging, deadpointing every move ascents of oh so glorious 5.10's and V3's. Their world is complete. Everyone is happy. The problem comes at the end of the next four to six months. Progress slows and the 5.10's and V3's are more ho hum than holy crap! They get under the impression that hangdogging is not allowed and become worried about falling on things that they should be able to do. This is a problem.

That mentality of get on everything, go for broke on every attempt, not worrying about what other people think is what leads to that one grade a month improvement. Sure, the body getting used to the particular strain climbing demands certainly helps, as does the rapid improvement in technique, but it's the attitude that lets these other qualities improve because it gets newbies on routes that teach them these things. Here's what we can learn from beginners:

1. Get on everything, if it's too hard move on, but one shot is not going to kill you.
2. Try hard, just keep going, even when you are flamed out at the end of the night, go till you can't close
your hands.
3. You are not important enough for people to care whether or not you fall off a route. Get over
yourself. Nobody is going to spread rumors, lose sleep, or in all likelihood notice if you fall.

The other things that helps beginners of course is the options. They have dozens of new routes to get on. I am going to try to walk the walk by setting a few routes of an appropriate difficulty for the team. The cool thing about climbing is that if we do the work we can climb on routes just as difficult as any in the world, shorter maybe, but just as difficult. 5.11 is the Newfoundland plateau. So many have made rapid progress to this point and then stalled. Want proof? I flashed Maggie 5.11 on toprope my very first day at Main Face. That was five years ago. I had the beginner mentality, now I am struggling to get it back.

Below are a few images from a gym in Las Vegas. We used to stop in here for $4.00 showers while climbing in the nearby Red Rock National Conservation Area. Would you climb harder if you had options like these? These routes are the same as ours, there are just more of them.

Little Steps, Long Road

2009-11-11T23:02:00.000-03:30

I just got back from the gym. It was the first time I have climbed in what seems like a long time, being sick last week compounded the feeling of starting from scratch. This phase, this getting back at it, it's rough. I was not psyched. As Phil mentioned in his comment on Kaleb's post, not a whole lot of new stuff has gone up as of late. I was hoping for a few fresh ones to motivate this mini-comeback, but Nat and I quickly paced through our normal warmup on the lead walls, pink on 13, red on 12, and either orange or purple on 11. We did jump on a new 5.6, more so to be on the "new" than the 5.6, but as I lowered off I was honestly feeling like packing it in.

I haven't climbed with Natalie much lately, we climb at the same time quite a bit but it's rarely just the two of us. We have polar opposite styles; I like my sport climbs steep and powerful, and feel very out of place on her vertical ballets of highstepping crimpness. She suggested I work on a few vertical routes to change things up a bit. It worked out well.

For the past month I have actually been taking steps to address my biggest weakness, my flexibility. It's a long process. Most nights my progress is measures in millimeters, moving a foot just a little farther, reaching just a little more. People gravitate to activities that they excel at. There is a reason Lebron James loves basketball and didn't fall in love with say..figure skating. Being exceptionally skilled, or at least better than average, bottom line makes you more inclined to do continue doing an activity. Nobody likes being reminded how bad they are at something.

I suck at stretching, I guess more to the point my flexibility sucks. My toes do not get touched. I bring up like my car stalls, suddenly and without having travelled very far. But, I have been working on it. I have put hours of stretching in each week and slowly those millimeters are coming together. The goal is to keep my ass closer to the wall when climber the straight up ones.

I worked on this tonight, just keeping the hips in and using the feet. These next few weeks are just conditioning weeks and Nat kind of opened me up to the idea of using this time to really focus on my weaknesses. I felt out of place climbing these vertical routes, hell I felt out of place at the gym in general. I was the fixture that really didn't match with all the new furniture. But by the end of it I got a better feel for things and ticked off one route that had given me some trouble at the beginning of the night. It wasn't a big deal but like the stretching is teaching me, millimeters add up.

I didn't get many replies about setting up a regular schedule for climbing during the week. Seriously, if anyone is at all game let me know. Later all.

Paul

I have a confession... CLIMBING GYMS ROCK!!

2009-11-09T11:04:00.003-03:30

As climbers enter the so-called “off season” there are many other climbers entering what they would call the “on season”

Primarily this blog is about climbing outdoors, as it should be, but the fact of the matter is that indoor climbing is taking over and has branched into a separate discipline of the sport we call climbing. There isn’t just Sport, Bouldering, Trad and Ice anymore, Indoor climbing has become a style all on it’s own.

This is a picture from "Climbers Rock" in Burlington, Ontario

Originally indoor climbing was a training tool only… go to the gym because it is snowing. Now it has become go to the gym… because that’s what I do. I recently returned from Ontario where I spent three days buried in climbing gym culture, and believe it or not there is people there that climb 5.12 and V8... That have never climbed outside. To me, and most of us this is a foreign concept. Now as much as I like to deny it, I am a total gym rat, and I love the gym, and I guarantee that most years I put in more days at the gym then outside (I am there every single day almost between work and climbing). But the difference, is my motivation to climb at the gym is to get stronger for Bouldering the following season, Not to send the sick white route on 5/6 (Though I do really want to send that).

Previously I Frowned upon the gym rats, (again denying my own membership to the gym rat cult) certain people that I thought were lame cause the never climbed outside. But the fact of the matter is they are still going climbing. On my trip I came to two conclusions about indoor climbing. 1) I myself climb in the gym a lot, and need to get out more. And 2) that gym climbers are still doing the same thing we are. Most of them feel that if a climb can be led (led? What is that right) it should be led. They work hard to send their projects and put in multiple hours to do so, and when its all said and done… they love climbing. I sometimes think gym climbers have it worse… think about working your project, you have sussed every move, every clip, all the rests, you have gone home and danced the route in your head a million times, you go down to flatrock and someone accidentally dropped a bomb on it and the whole thing was blown up…you would be sooo bummed. (For the record I am sorry for being our gyms bomb dropper) Gym climbers also deal with super busy crags… covered in H1N1 infested killdren.

I guess the Point of this ramble was to say that we should embrace gym climbing as a separate discipline… I would rather climb in the gym all winter then not climb at all. I would also like to say that everyone should sign up for boulder comp, because im a dedicated employee and want your money. Nuff Said ( bet you never thought I would write/say that)

This Was my first post on a blog. As someone who is immersed in gym culture this may be my only angle as a writer. If no body wants to here about the gym then kindly e-mail me and tell me to shut up. Keep in mind that I drop the bombs at Wallnuts…bye bye projects.. Just kidding…

Sup doc?

2009-11-08T10:44:00.001-03:30

I’ve actually typed this on Saturday but in the interest of keeping paul’s post on top I’ve delayed the posting. We apologize for any inconvenience this may have caused and appreciate your patience (sorry, just got back from the aliant store). I know, I know, it’s still on the page but I have a feeling that people who view these posts won’t cue in when there is two new posts in any given day. Perhaps I’m wrong. That has happened once or twice in the past.

Noel has his Viagra party last night (it’s much more PG that it sounds, kids). We had a descent turn out, bit less than last year, but given the recent pandemic, I think it went over quite well. Great variety of problems on the board ranging from technical and crimpy to powerful and juggy. It’s been about 8 months since I’ve bouldered (indoors or out). Not my cup of tea, but hey, I’ll have a mug of earl grey every now and then.

We enjoyed some pics and stories from the gunks afterwards. I also brought up a 6ish minute clipshow highlighting what we’ve been filming for the movie over the past few years. Kinda gave an overview of how the movie would feel and whatnot. I’m not going to post this clipshow because well… I don’t want to. Na ner na ner na ner. Anyway, Just wanted to say: Thanks Noel.

Sickness, Not the Good Kind...or the Really Bad

2009-11-07T11:39:00.000-03:30

My apologies for the lack of new material this week, I have been fighting a flu, no not the flu of ultimate panic and paranoia, apparently there are many other illnesses floating around under the media radar. I have been in bed most nights by nine in hopes of recuperating for the next day. That said, here are a few notes from the rumor mill, but since this isn't a cheesy gossip site everything below is indeed true.

- Steve Crouse is leaving Wallnuts after many years. The dude has been there forever but has finally decided to hang up his staff tag.

- I will be assuming coaching duties of the Wallnuts junior team while Leo steps up and takes on Steve's responsibilities.

- I am getting a little annoyed by all this time off and really want to get back to climbing as soon as possible. If my finger does not feel 100% this time around I very well might just Caldwell it.

- Matt has to work on the one weekend day (what is the opposite of "weekday"?) that looks decent. We have tentative plans to bolt Sunday morning despite the fact that an early morning has a 50/50 chance of killing me me. I call heads.

I had a very interesting chat yesterday with Jane, of junior team fame. We came to the collective conclusion that climbing alone, going in alone to boulder and beg for catches, and engaging in other such loser-esq activities sucks. In this newly enlightened state I now put the call out for climbing partners. I have never really been in the habit of searching for people to climb with but when I think back on the best sessions I have ever had there was a crowd there yelling encouragement and making a huge contribution to any sends I was able to eek out. I don't care about what grades you climb, your age, gender, whatever. Come in regularly with a good crew and you will improve your climbing and have some fun.

As of now I want to climb Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and one weekend day (someone please tell me there is a proper word for this!!!) I fully expect this schedule to work for noone, but maybe we'll get some people for Monday, some for Friday, others can organize other days if they want to.

Get over the nerves of putting yourself out there, of thinking your not good enough, and of just being scared in general. Post up a comment with your schedule and contact info, preferably email, or send me an email. I would like to get a group email list set up by late this week if at all possible.

My email is paulchaisson@gmail.com

Check out the apartment in this video for an idea of the dedication it takes to boulder indoors alone. Malcolm Smith is a huge advocate of climbing every day. I don't know how he stays injury free let alone sends 8B+ (V14 for those of you who never went through an unfortunate scenester phase.)

Trick or Treat

2009-11-03T22:50:00.001-03:30

I had this post ready to go a few days ago, but thought I would give due time to Matt's soap opera fascination. I'll be in the gym Wednesday, Friday and either Saturday or Sunday.

The last time I went trick or treating I made it thorough two houses before this guy answered his door, took one look at me, two at my shitty costume and asked, "So, where do you work?" I was a tall fifteen year old, but still. The thing about trick or treating is you don't get much at each house, is the accumulation that matters. A handful here and there combined with way too many hours pounding the pavement invariably results in a full pillow case. Sometimes you get an apple, or these unfrozen mr. freezies that one woman on my old block used to hand out. She was a terrible substitute teacher who used to torture one of my friends with violin lessons, but I remember the mr. freezies the most. When I was twelve I came across a giant basket of chips with a "help yourself" sign. I thought it was a trick; it wasn't, but I felt bad about taking more than three dozen bags. You gotta keeps others in mind after all.

On Saturday Phil, Evan, and myself did the climber's version of trick or treating. Using some amazingly detailed online maps we scoped out some extremely promising rock faces by the ocean. We knew there were walls out there it was only a question of were any worth the hour to hour and a half trek in. We started at noon and needed headlamps to get out, all in all we covered about twenty three kilometers including backtracking. Evan was the photographer, and has some great shots that he is organizing now. He's a taste of what we found.

The stone is the exact same as what is out at Blackhead. It is a pebble free sandstone that has great texture and forms some really climbing friendly terrain. The bottom line in terms of what this place is that it is quite good. I'm just not sure it is good enough. The cliffs are a collection of International Walls, Spanky's Playgrounds, and Bloodbaths in terms of size. Around every corner is an area that looks similar to these well knowns. Main Face aside, it is normal to have to hike between small crags to get a good day of climbing in. This is little consolation to the fact that I hate walking between crags. It would be fun to get a crew together and camp out at this place, put some top bolts in and do some new climbs, but I honestly don't think this is going to happen all that often. Realistically, the effort of hiking in an hour+, setting glue-ins, waiting for them to dry... Even if you bring trad gear and make anchors to climb while you wait I just don't think enough people would be up for this given the much closer options available. Until the closer options become climbed out by enough people that trek in just won't be viable.

All in all we found some good areas. Lots of handfuls of candy but no "help yourself" basket. If these areas were at Flatrock I would have routes on them in a heartbeat. There are a lot of walls, a lot of doors that we knocked on. The best of it required that we rap in to the base. These photos are of the crappy section of that wall. The better part is a little taller, slightly overhanging in one section, and very clean. High tide created a pond between me and the base.

Check out the multi tiered roof system on the left, and the walls off in the distance.

We reached the "fun's over, I want this hike to end" point after it started to rain and get dark. There was still one very promising area we didn't get to check. This pic was taken about an hour before we bailed.

My legs are finally recovered today, I am not used to hiking and the seven areas we put in provided a terribly rude reminder of this fact. A big thanks to Phil especially for agreeing to this nonsense. The guy fit this in between a work party and a scheduled trip to Mardi Gras. Normally the "call me in the morning" while heavy drinking is going on in the background response to "Hey, you want to go for a hike tomorrow?" results in call screening.

Nicholas Newman

2009-11-01T22:41:00.007-03:30

I am posting tonight just for the sole purpose of pointing out that Paul Chaisson looks just like Nicholas Newman (a washed up actor who plays a role in the soap opera days of our lives.... i think).

Sloppy Poppy

2009-11-01T22:37:00.001-03:30

This post is all about me.

Had a good session at the gym tonight. Ticked off some climbs - the type of a similar nature would both intimidate and scare me to the point where I would do anything but commit a year ago. Glad to see an improvement in that area of my climbing over this summer. My footwork sucked tonight. I swear I was wearing tap shoes... Movement was a bit my dynamic at times. Having said all that I am finding my balance to be quite better and my thought process to be much more logical and calm. Been able to climb a half a grade higher than this time last year as well... My goal for the next few weeks: Quiet down the footwork and be more static. Perhaps the both the quiet feet and 3 second hold exercises during warm ups would help. See... told you this post was all about me. Here's a picture:

Coming Soon...

2009-10-30T17:42:00.008-02:30

The weather has been atrocious as of late. I saw on the news that in the last thirty days we have received almost twice the normal amount of precipitation for the month of October. It's shocking, and depressing, how little sunshine we've had. This has been really bad for what I had in mind this fall, bolting new lines. The bolting needs to happen before Matt leaves at the end of the month as he is teaching me what he learned from Noel last summer, so the push is on.

I think it would be irresponsible to install bolts on the sport climbs we have in mind to establish, as we cannot climb them to ensure those bolts would be placed in the ideal positions, so the priority in my mind is installing top bolts. We have five routes in mind to put anchors on. Come spring it's going to be a bonanza. Here's the rundown on two (I only have pictures of two) of the routes that will be accessible by this time next week.

This crack line is on the far left side of Main Face. Most routes in this area have a distinct feature that you want to climb and come choss or high water (both can be dangers) your digits will meet that feature. The beginning of this route is best described using two of the sweetest words in climbing: "overhanging" and "crack." It will have to be cleaned up before it is established, but the line looks cool. A thin overhanging crack leads to gear protected face climbing and then big features lead you home. I am really excited about this one. It has potential, a lot of potential.

Another crack line on the left. This one has been a thorn in my side for years. I tried it back in the day with Andrew Linegar. I fell a couple of times due to a both a lack of trust in my gear and terrible crack skills. After pulling back on We finished up that pitch, and then continued on up a 5.7 death pitch of loose rock, mud, and massive falling blocks. Thank God Linegar was tucked under a roof cuz I knocked a dumptruck load of rock down his way. The first pitch was great and I am really looking forward to climbing it without committing to the nastiness above. Pulling through the roof is 5.10c-ish and and the final crack goes somewhere in the 5.4b range.

Matt is tied up all weekend with some first aid thing. We need a completely dry day to put in these bolts. If I am working next week and it starts to look as though we're not going to get down before the snow leaves no chance of the crag drying out, then we're going to head down one day after work. It will suck. We both know this. I really cannot wait to have these lines accessible though, there is no better form of motivation than fresh routes and it has been far too long since we have had a decent number to play on.

"IT".... not to be confused with Information Technology

2009-10-28T11:54:00.002-02:30

So it has been a while for me as far as the posting goes. But I can’t just sit back and watch Paul have all the fun this winter, I want in!

A few weeks ago paul posted about what “it” is for him. In a sentence: The perfect climb. Obviously, this means something completely different for every individual person. He spoke of sea clifts, cracks, and gear. My turn. Hopefully this post will inspire other contributors of this blog to have a talk about what “it” is for them.

I started the trad scene this summer. Learned a hell of a lot, but I’m no where close to accepting the label of a trad climber. Not that you need to label people… but you get my point. I feel as if “it” would change for me provided I gain enough exposure to different areas of climbing and what I would tend to look for would intern change as well. Most of my training and what I’ve been doing since I started climbing has been on those good ‘ole silver dangly things we call bolts.

I like technical climbing. I like figuring it out, balancing it out. Vertical walls. Very quite, very slow, very static. Thin crips, scattered about in a random assortment with no order or plan behind it. That’s inspiring to me. I cannot pinpoint why this type of climbing is so attractive to me. Perhaps it’s because I like investigating. Trying 19 moves until one is found that works best and then linking that with the move both before and after it. The rock I like compressed. Consistency is a nice comfortable feeling. Now… can anyone find “it” for me? Thanks.

Kevin Avery trusting some thin feet on the Italian Riviera:

Back at It

2009-10-27T21:19:00.003-02:30

I'm heading in for a climb tomorrow, the first in nearly three weeks. Climbing is a unique means of getting "back in shape" which is easily one of the most tossed around phrases in the western world... especially in North America... but especially in the southern States. Hey, damn straight I'm going to poke fun; given the weather here vs. there we have to cling to the good as the bad is closing in on my last remnants of hope for getting some bolting done before Christmas. All sidenotes aside, climbing gives me a tangible goal that is so much easier to work towards than the vague concept of being "in shape."

Quote of the day: "I'm in shape, round is a shape"

Everyone has a plan as to how to improve the climbing how to "get strong, brah." Most plans are a form of the periodization formula, you climb easy for a bit increasing your sessions so you body becomes accustomed to the number and length of workouts you will demand from it (Stamina Phase). From there you concentrate on Endurance orientated exercises for say three weeks, before phasing in and then transitioning into a Power Phase and then a Power Endurance Phase. The few times I have stuck to anything resembling this type of schedule I have run into problems. Personally, I find that even if my endurance is phenomenal (for me, other people would tell me it sucks) two weeks of bouldering turns any semblance of endurance into insta-pump. My endurance disappears with a scary quickness.

So, I was watching a video last week in which the videographer followed around Tommy Caldwell. At one point Tommy talks about his training, specifically how he trains power first and then works on endurance. Huh? This cannot be. He cannot mess with the sacred periodization formula! I could go on about how Tommy is one of the best all-around blah blah blah, big wall this, 5.15 that... but most importantly this makes sense. If you get the fingers strong and maintain that strength or even 80-90% of that improved strength through your endurance and power endurance phases, you will be both stronger and able to maintain that strength through many moves (PE). I'm in. Tomorrow I will start climbing again, increasing the number and length of the sessions until I am comfortable with four long sessions a week. In a few weeks the fun ends/begins.

Just so I don't seem like a vague wanker here is the video in question. The video actually isn't that good, but it gave me something, which is cool. It's all about taking little bits from many places and getting an idea of what works best. PS, excellent yoga class tonight, it was good to see so many bodies out giving it a try. And yes my yoga mat is pink, bright pink. I am comfortable in my masculinity, it makes up for my discomfort in so many yoga poses.

A Day in The Life of Tommy Caldwell from Cedar Wright on Vimeo.

The Month

2009-10-25T15:59:00.007-02:30

A lot of people talk about how the winter is the time to get strong. That's true, but actually doing that takes some serious work. You can all the plans you want, know exactly how to make improvements, whatever, but I strongly believe that the biggest indicator of how much a person will improve is their work ethic. Plateauing? Not as strong as you would like? The first question you should ask is, "How much am I climbing?" Yes, a plan + a strong work ethic = ideal. But if I have two newbs and had to make a bet on who's going to reach the good ol' Newfoundland plateau of 5.11 I'll choose Johnny Worksalot over Steve McSuperplan.

Here is a month long routine from Andy Raether, a top level sport climber based out of Colorado who happens to be a training machine. This is what he does to stay in shape. Most plans focus on attaining a peak, a window of hard climbing where you clue up all the projects you can before resting and repeating. “The Month” seeks to maintain all around strength allowing you to climb well whenever the opportunity arises (read: it stops freakin raining.) Can you keep up?

Just a note, PE means Power Endurance

Less Talk, More Chalk

2009-10-21T18:47:00.006-02:30

So a bunch of us got together the other night to watch "Progression." It was cool, good to get everyone together, talk about upcoming plans and the like. Jared pointed out, however, how genuinely dumb it was to watch a movie like that on a freakin Sunday night. He's right too. We're all sitting around psyched up...and then we all go home and go to bed.

I took my cousin out to Flatrock earlier this year. When it comes to heights John is like a bird that wakes up next to a cat after getting knocked senseless by a window pane, he is frightfully scared and dumbfounded as to how he got into such a situation. I was talking to John about the season and how so few people were out climbing. He remarked, "Yeah, you don't really seem like a scenester." I was proud man. I'd never heard the term before but knew what he meant, just like I knew that I used to be one. Later on I looked up/Googled the term. Scenesters are apparently people who try to fit into a given stereotype; in this case they do everything to look like a climber but don't actually climb. Now, I have no problem with the weekend warriors, or with the people who get out once a month and finish that day of climbing with a smile on their face. Everyone has varying levels of commitment to their hobbies, and judging someone as inferior because they climb less than you might make you feel superior but it definitely makes you a douchebag.

A few years ago I was a scenester. I saw myself as a climber and wanted others to know it. "Yeah, I climb rocks." I was really self-conscious about and scared of falling. I wanted climbing to be easy and the realization that it wasn't left me unable to do everything I had talked about doing. I did like climbing but was so overwhelmed by what I supposed to do that I found ways to avoid even trying it. Heading into the gym is easy, watching movies is easy, talking about what Sharma has done is really easy when you read as many magazines as I did, and all these things make you feel like a climber. We are all looking for some form of identity, something we can be known for. The problem is, a climber is someone who climbs, not someone who talks about climbing or wears Prana shirts. The scenesters are scared, they want to be a hardcore climber but are afraid of what this involves. Nowadays, I know I'm not a hardcore climber and frankly, I don't want to be. I do my thing, live the lifestyle I love, and try not to compare that lifestyle to anyone else's. In "Progression" Paxti Usobiaga mentions that in training for the World Cup Circuit he didn't have a rest day for three months. I admire Paxti, but I am not going to pretend that I am trying to go down that road.

There are a lot of new climbers starting up around here and honestly, our climbing community has a lot of potential to develop scenesters. There is a lot of pressure around here to climb if you are a climber, pressure leads to expectations, expectations lead to self-consciousness, and before long something leads to the dark side. Before we took my cousin out Tiffany started going down to Main Face for a few sessions. The first few times she seemed really self-conscious about falling in front of us, so I asked her what was up. She had the chutzpah I wish I had back in the day and said she was embarrassed because she was scared. I caught her off guard when I laughed. It took a while and a lot of back up from the crew but eventually Tiffany understood that we all got scared even terrified at different points. Apparently, she had been listening to other people talk, they talked about "just 'effin going for it" "running it out" "taking huge whips" and "sending that shit!!!!!" I honestly don't know when this was happening as we were down there most nice days, but anyway. They (and I'm honestly not sure who she was referencing) had made themselves out to be fearless and gave the impression that it was stupid to be anything else. When it turned out that she wasn't fearless she felt stupid, and who can blame her? That's the big problem with talkin' bullshit, not only is it hard to live up to your own lies, but you create expectations for other people. Bullshit is poison for the climbing community, do everyone a favor and call people on this garbage.

Scenester Symptoms:

i) Talk about going out but never show up.

ii) If they do go out they talk about that one time for a number of weeks greater than the number of hours they were out.

iii) Are constantly "training" for something, but they never actually try that something.

iv) Talk about details of top climbers as if they got a phone call from them yesterday. ie

"I think Dave Graham would do it before Sharma, it's just Dave's style."

v) They tell you to go for it, there's no reason to be scared, etc. But never actually take the fall themselves.

vi) Make up crazy innovative and way too detailed ways of doing ordinary things such as, but not limited to: clipping, spotting, belaying, racking gear, and stickclipping.

vii) When they are outside they spend more time doing those aforementioned things than they do climbing.

viii) Take every opportunity possible to tell newbies what they are doing wrong.

ix) Make overarching statements about areas or climbs despite only ever being there once or twice or, worst case scenario, having only read about it in a magazine.

x) Relate any climbing centered conversation back to the same route or trip. You were scared, "Yeah the time I sent C'est la Douche I was super scared and barely got through just like you said." You felt good, "Man, the best I ever felt was when I sent C'est la Douche it just flowed like you were sayin'"

Some of these I used to do, others are pet peeves. If you suspect your partner may be showing these symptoms administer two mg of bitch slap and 5 cc's of "dude, stfu"

This is an old school vid of Dave Graham, living the life. The dude messes around, but his genuine desire to get out there is legendary. Ridiculous (in many ways) stuff.

I am going to start climbing again next week sometime so maybe I'll get off the rant and actually talk about climbing on this blog. Have a good weekend all.

Heads Up

2009-10-19T21:10:00.005-02:30

Hey, just a heads up to anyone thinking about trying out the yoga sessions; these sessions are every second Tuesday. As it stands now there will not be one this Tuesday, the 20th, the next one will instead be the 27th. Personally, I have been doing massive amounts of stretching over the last week or so and the change has come quickly. I always said I was going to do it and now am. Head level heel hooks here I come. Anyway, I gotta throw something else up here so:

This is a vid from Ghislain Losier. Zig is a really strong boulder and all around good guy based out of Halifax. This is one of the last tidbits on Corner Brook bouldering I swear...until next spring...unless I'm on a routes kick...or my projects are going well.

http://www.zigtv.ca/nfld.mov

It is a little sad the Haligonians (seriously, is that what they call themselves? What do people from St. John's call themselves? have made more of an impact out that way than us. If I was a wanker I'd go on some "this is our house/turf/I'm still a wanker" speech. Anyway, I'm still restin' and stretchin' happy Monday everybody.

"Girl Beta"

2009-10-16T20:12:00.004-02:30

Natalie has been informally organizing "girl nights" at Wallnuts, once a week her and a few friends ditch the testosterone and climb without using phrases like "Just throw for it!" It's cool to mix up the partners every now and then, I like climbing with women to see how much I need to work on balance and using small holds as opposed to just chucking for the better holds. More than just the physical is the social aspect of climbing. Nat certainly doesn't tag along with me when we go climbing, but sometimes there is the unspoken dynamic of climbing being my thing as opposed to our thing or her thing.

I have tagged along to girls night a few times and bouldered, it's a cool vibe. I can't be part of it, but it is cool. I don't know if it's just climbing with people who have a similar body type to your own or some sort of camaraderie that naturally seems to develop when the opposite sex is on hiatus but something is there that the girls enjoy. To any women reading this, give Nat a call if you are interested, I am not going to post the night that everyone has been going for fear of sounding the douchbag single guy mating call. Her number is 743-5852. Here's a video on a "girls day" on a big wall.

Weakness? Rest? Snow?!

2009-10-15T18:52:00.000-02:30

Yeah, the season is over. The weather last night kind of put an exclamation point on that fact. Fair weather days will now be devoted to either bolting or bouldering. Myself, I will be doing more bolting, I was in the gym on Tuesday and felt a finger acting up while I was on the small holds, so I am going to actually listen to my body and take some time off. During the down time I do want to put some work into bettering my climbing, specifically I want to work on my fitness and weaknesses.

One of my biggest weaknesses has consistently been my flexibility. Before my finger screamed at me to stop climbing I got talked into taking the Yoga class Katie offers at Wallnuts for the lovely price of $Free.99. Yoga has always been one of those things I've wanted to do but would shove to the back burner due to things I was already involved in. The class of Tuesday was fantastic. Everything was easy to follow and the applicability of yoga to climbing was really evident as major focus was on opening the hips.

If you look though as many climbing magazines as I have, you will run across pictures of guys and gals doing things you cannot possibly do. So maybe you can't do those few particular routes right? No big deal, except that it is. If you can get your hips closer to the wall as you step up (and apparently this happens quite a bit in climbing) on any route you save energy. Save energy and those almost sends turn into chain clipping good times. The biggest advantage in the increase in efficiency on small holds pasted to vertical faces. Just notice next time you are climbing a vertical face how much your ass sticks out when you transition into a high step. It might be a little bit of a wake up call.

Katie also made a really good point that kinda hit home for me. If your muscles are tight, your body is spending energy to keep them tight. Last year my lower back muscles tightened up to a scary degree and eventually pulled a rib away from my spine. It is now my belief that if the energy I waste could be harnessed I could, in theory now, make the Lower Churchill project redundant.

Yoga is on Tuesday nights at 7:30 and it's free for Wallnuts members, free as in zero down and zero on delivery.

A technique master, the late John Bachar really trusting his high steps on The Gift 5.12d

Crazy

2009-10-12T21:56:00.008-02:30

There is one more area that I wanted to cover in my continued argument of why we (me and anyone) should roadtrip to Corner Brook this spring. I mentioned The Asylum in a previous post, but here is another look at the goods.

On any roadtrip there should be some sort of "wow factor" something so radically different from what you are used to that it serves as an immediate return on your investment of time and money. There are no boulders larger than your coffee table at The Asylum, crimpers are not really the norm, nether are slopers. This area is unique, so completely different from "regular" bouldering that you need a new outlook as to what constitutes a problem. The main feature of this area is a dead horizontal forty foot roof, so large is this feature that it creates a unique 3D bouldering experience. Essentially you can start anywhere on this roof and move to a determined finishing point. It's like looking at a bouldering wall but you don't have to start at the bottom and climb up, you can go in any direction and start anywhere on the wall, though most work their way towards the literal light at the end of the tunnel.

The day after sessions at The Asylum your abs hurt; the climbing is gymnastic and physical, with success contingent on your ability to use your core tension effectively and remain strong as the distance between your palms is widened. To use your feet you have to keep them on and one particular V5 goes at twelve moves only so many of which I would recommend campusing. A nice companion to the roof is a long wall that runs adjacent to the crag. The wall is overhanging the whole way and features jugs, pinches, and crimps on slick stone. On this wall you will both drop knee and chuck. As I mentioned earlier, fun problems range from V0 to easy V4. This is the only limestone area I have seen developed in Newfoundland and, while not huge, there is more than enough here to keep a crew busy for a weekend. Should you ever get out there and feel strong try the following problem put up by some guys from Halifax. Just, try not to hunt and eat any squirrels as they do in this video (WARNING!!!!). So, a caution to the sensitive and a serious "wtf" to the Halifax crew. Later all.

A view of the overhanging wall and Susan and myself looking through a very large horizontal limestone thread.

Time to Get the Siskel and Ebert On

2009-10-11T11:45:00.005-02:30

I just finished watching "Progression," a few posts ago I had posted the trailer for this the new film from BigUp productions. I haven't been super impressed by a lot of the climbing films that have come out lately. Really forgettable segments have plagued most of the movies that have come out recently, and even worse is the disjointed nature of so many of these works. "First Ascent" did a great job of pulling things together with their storytelling but when I go back to watch the whole movie I skip over three full segments. The footage in the "Dosage" films in consistently the best in the industry but it's, for the most part, just random ascents here and there, random areas. The insight is what I like. Being shown what is going on in the climber's head, how they are approaching the route, what the specific challenges of a problem are; all too often this is blown by in the pursuit of getting a bunch of stuff, stuff over substance.

More so than any climbing film since "First Ascent" "Progression" delves into the substance while delivering some amazing stuff. The entire work smacks of effort. Every shot seems chosen, picked from many and put together to form a visually stunning whole. "Progression" attempts to show the edge of the current state of climbing, the limits of athletes specializing in different disciplines. I'm a trad climber, but found myself super impressed with the section on indoor competition climbing. I would have liked to have seen a little more of the gritstone climbing segment but understand that the accomplishments featured in this section, while amazing in their own right, were repeats not new ground, and the cohesive force of this film is the emergence of new difficulty and pushing past what has been done in the past. This segment was instead used to lead into Kevin Jorgenson's shocking highball ascents in Bishop CA and I have to respect the direction Josh Lowell and the boys went in because it works so well.

It is a little strange to be giving a film such praise nowadays, lately myself and Trevor have been sitting down to watch climbing movies and ripping on them horribly. We have been analyzing them in the hopes of making his film better, pointing out what works and what doesn't with the latter usually far outweighing the former. I am not going to go into the details of particular segments of this film as what really impressed me was that "Progression" is an amazing piece of filmmaking. This is the overall best climbing movie I have seen. I loved the Didier footage from "First Ascent," but much of that stems from the type of climbing I like to see. "Progression" is the overall better movie, and if BigUp ever applies what they have done here to a traditional climbing film I will seriously contemplate flying done to Colorado/New York/California/Wherever USA for the premiere. It's just so refreshing to see such incredible filmmaking skills and intense effort come together.

A little overview of the segments:

Sport Climbing with Chris Sharma and Adam Ondra

Competition Climbing with Paxti Usobioga and Johanna Ernst

Bouldering in the Rocklands with Daniel Woods, Paul Robinson and Tommy Caldwell

Big Wall Free Climbing Projects with Caldwell

Gritston Climbing with Matt Segal, Alex Hannold, and Kevin Jorgenson

Highball Bouldering with Jorgenson

Jumbo Love 5.15b with Sharma

I might be up for arranging a little viewing party if people are game. Let me know if anyone's game either by leaving a comment or giving me a call. The weather calls for a inspiration injection. Take it easy all.

Bad News, Sweet Area

2009-10-08T20:54:00.010-02:30

Any plans of heading out to Corner Brook have fallen through due to water, very cold water. Good on Phil and Danielle for being up for it though. Despite this, I did want to continue to highlight a few areas out that way. For more on this particular one check out John Redpath's film "The Rock: Bouldering in Newfoundland" available at your nearest Wallnuts location.

Like any locals we have a certain bias when describing our local areas, we'll rave about redeeming aspects and leave out the not so enchanting. We want our areas to be considered good by others as it provides our own efforts at rock climbing validation. This is a complete load of course, kids playing stickball in the street seem to have tonnes more fun than most pro baseball players. But better facilities (and steroids) do produce better athletes, and a knock against where you climb all to often taken as a knock against you the climber. If I like it then it must be world class, no… galaxy class, your area is five stars, well, you ever hear of seventeen stars, yeah bitch, SEVENTEEN! I mean it’s a little chossy but whatever. Don’t worry my precious, precious, ego he won’t bother you anymore.

Gull Pond just might be a world-class area. Forty-five minutes from Corner Brook and only fifteen from Stephenville these hillside blocs offer an amazing number of problems on bullet hard granite identical to better known areas such as Squamish. Stephenville local Shawn White and a few other die-hards developed the area; Shawn told me about it while I was living in Halifax swearing that aside from Dover Island and possibly a then new area known as Grover, he had to put the Pond at the top of his list. To this day I remember that conversation as I thought he being a wee bit bias. Why am I always so very wrong? The sheer number of the areas around Halifax seal it's victory over Stephenville in the Boulderville Canada pagent, but Gull Pond is still one they wish they had. The boulders are too many to count and are guarded by a five minute walk. Brave that trek and you will pass by a forty foot long face that overhangs the trail and until last year did not have a dab of chalk on it. Everyone was busy with what lies above. After the face you come to a cave made of boulders, get used to it there are many, and then make the obligatory shove of the crashpad ahead of you up a slab that leads out of the boulder cave. This is the entrance to the main area termed the “Fred Penner” area because of that entrance. The boulders are strewn throughout the forest; ranging in size from your fist to your house, they are everywhere. There are currently about fifty established problems with room for at least three times that.

As is the norm in Newfoundland the problem/blessing is numbers. Shawn and his cohorts were strong, and the strong develop the hard. Most of the problems are difficult, more developers would lead to more and easier problems. Any problem easier than V2 is a classic, or unusual, there is always something though, something that convinced someone to dig through the moss and lichen in the hopes of finding a perfect problem. Every problem I have been on in Gull Pond has a little of this perfect quality, even the few slab problems. Most of faces are overhanging, some ridiculously so. THC is a fifteen foot V5 roof, its extension project adds another body length and three grades to the problem. To start Lapidary V7 you actually begin under a roof with your feet higher than your hands. The walls can be 45 degrees, just slightly overhanging, or the dead vertical crimpfest of Up From the Shallows V8.

Everyone’s favorite problem though is Azrael V1. The best V1 I have ever done anywhere. A big move with a solid heel hook leads to a rock wrinkle of a crimp, that without a thumb-catch would be a V8 grip. Stay tight and shuffle the feet around to set up for the huck. If this problem is hard for you your feet will cut, hell, cut ‘em anyway for the fun of it. Should you miss the huck you fall down the hole. My first time, I fell. The crash pads keep you safe, spotters are only there for comfort which is nice when on attempt two you picture the result of attempt one; your torso in the hole still connected to the only visible part of your body: your feet which stick straight up in the air inducing chuckles from those not in the hole.

My favorite aspect of Gull Pond bouldering is the ice. The caves run so deep that leftover winter ice can persist well into June. Cool breezes drift up from these caves providing a hurricane eye of perfect temps on hot days. Climbing in weather that mitigates my chalk addiction, but also lounging in the hot sun between attempts? The world is upside down, I am still in the hole.

This arete is just another undone line; Trevor and Kaleb making their way though the forest.

Everyone trying to avoid "the hole." Having a few goes on the must-do Azrael V1. Click on each for the bigger image.

Reason to Road Trip 1

2009-10-07T10:54:00.009-02:30

As of today the weather has put any possibility of a trip out to Corner Brook in serious doubt. If things fall into place at the last minute then sure, awesome, but I'm not going to get my hopes up. Anyone who has climbed with me over the past few years knows that I am not a huge fan of bouldering. I do it sure, but given a preference I'd rather be on a rope. Oddly enough, I actually spent the first three years of my climbing career bouldering. When the bouldering is good it can be a lot of fun to get a crew and session, and, nothing beats running a circuit when everyone is too tied up with things to tie in. "Good bouldering" for me means concentration, aesthetic lines, and inspiring movement.

The bouldering around Corner Brook is good and I spent an untold number of days seeing just how good it really is. Most often I was alone, which despite the whole Hollywood depiction of loners being badass dudes who get all the girls, basically sucks. Have you ever noticed that all the lone wolf types in movies just happen to have perfectly sculpted hair that would take mere mortals three bottles of hair gel and an honest hour in front of the mirror to pull off? The reason for this (besides the fact that it's bullshit in that hair not gel) is that deep down all the loner types realize, as I did, that being alone sucks.

During these years (yeah, years how sad is that?) I was only able to get on select problems; to work many problems I had to wire moves over a pad then move the pad under another section and hope that I really had those first moves wired. I have more than my fair share of near miss stories. The thing is I kept going back to it, and if I were to move to Corner Brook tomorrow I would grab the pad again and be and be out the door chalk pot in hand more often than not. Here's one reason why. I'll be providing more reasons later.

The Pasadena Boulders:

These boulders should suck, it's just two boulders, that have idiotic graffiti pasted to a few sections and there is a genuine risk of stepping on glass should you travel between the boulders barefoot. Counterpoint to this urban crag ambiance is the fact that no two boulders should offer as many problems as these two gems. There are no less than 26 problems on these boulders; 26 incredibly varied problems. V0 sits beside Vproj, and, these two problems are probably as similar as their grades. Highball, technical, powerful, slopers, crimps, big moves, traverses, overhanging, vertical. Morons who want to sound exotic call this "the whole enchalada" I used to call it my own outdoor gym. You can do 10 problems in 15 minutes if you want to, and I did. I used to run through circuits here in the evenings, problem after problem until the pump, not the moves, spit me off. The holds are all definitive, crimps that look like they were designed, slopers with funky thumb catches. The only common link is this: on top of every problem is a flat jug ledge and easy mantle. It is one of the best spots I have ever been to learn how to boulder. The approach is two minutes and there's no packing up between problems. This area is all about getting things done, the quintessential after work area. Just don't come looking for a wilderness experience. I once had to ask a guy to move his car so I could spread my pad beneath the left boulder. Three strange looks later he moved the car.

Trevor Harris crimpin' hard

The camera angle in the first shot takes away from how overhung this wall is, notice how straight the tree in the background is? Shot two is better, Susan airs it out for the first time ever.

Seriously? White kids in Pasa-frickin-dena did this? Really? Tupac would be pissed. Remind me to pour a forty on the curb later to calm my homie down...yo?

Oh yeah, before I forget. Look how much hair gel being a loner requires. Both of them, dark and mysterious and glued to a mirror in the morning. "I'm too troubled to risk loving you, but too vain to risk bed head." God help me if any Twilight fans read this thing.

Last Minute

2009-10-05T12:47:00.004-02:30

Hey, apparently people do read this thing and the time has come to take advantage of that fact. The weather forecast is going to change, it always does. Should it change for the better I am hoping to put together a last minute trip to the West Coast of the province. The bouldering around Corner Brook is awesome. It is concentrated, there are an abundance of moderates, and incredible variety in terms of both rock and types of problems.

I was hoping to profile some of the areas around Corner Brook in the future using some footage Trevor shot last year but as he is out of town I will settle for this:

Climbing Newfoundland, Asylum from Todd Foster on Vimeo.

Some of the guys from Halifax took a trip up and apparently enjoyed it; what you don't see in this video is the long overhanging wall by the large roof, the wall has many V0s and a few in the V2 - V4 range. This is one of three areas I want to hit up, there are about eight solid areas around Corner Brook but on this trip I would like to stick with the best of the best. I have a place to stay out there and am looking for a car load of people, we can take my pad. I just need some people for motivation, spotting, and gas money. Gas each way is about fifty dollars split between however many go. If you are interested drop a comment or give me a call.

No work for me today which might be a good thing, if I had a permanent teaching job at the moment I probably would have called in a sub today. I just can't seem to shake this cold though I think if I just accept I am sick and rest it will go away, that's not much fun though. There was a really fun indoor session last night, it was great but I went to bed feeling it. I am still hoping to go scoping for new areas later in the week, hopefully I don't forget the camera.

Progress?

2009-10-04T10:55:00.005-02:30

Ha! I've got my internet connection back, things are up and running once again. It's amazing how quickly such a large portion of our lives have become at least in some way influenced, if not completely wrapped up and around other people's computers and information. Yes, I am well aware that I am saying this through the latest fad in bandwidth usage. I am not saying the internet is the devil and we're all going to burn, it's just incredible how quickly one thing has undeniably changed well...everything. Everything is faster, in the past news agencies made sure we were bombarded with articles and reports as soon as disasters happened, now that same speed applies to laughing babies and hilarious animal antics. We have access to more, in some cases too much.

Whenever I have gone on a long climbing trip I was always been amazed when a few weeks would come around that offered no chance at internet access. Things got a little quieter, everything that I usually check on a daily basis went on blissfully unaware that I was no longer looking for updates. Nat and myself were in Yosemite once years back, and I remember walking by a newsstand in Curry Village, on the front page was a headline about the Virginia Tech shootings. It had happened a day or two ago, we didn't have a clue about what was going on. Normally, I would had seen the headline on Yahoo News, checked the article, and continued eating the PB & J I usually have in the morning. In Yosemite we bought the paper, sat down and talked about it all for an hour or so. It was simple and nice, two qualities that are extremely important in my mind. Take from it what you will but that's what happened.

Anyway, despite the complexity, the sometimes information overload, and the fact that I should read more in the morning (or at least change up the breakfast routine every now and then), it is pretty cool to have instant access to videos like the one below. "Progression" looks amazing. In every climbing video there are always segments that are forgettable, but every segment in this one has real potential. I for one need a little boost seeing after looking at this.

Delays and Elation

2009-10-03T15:16:00.014-02:30

My internet connection has been down since Monday afternoon, I am currently mooching off Nat's brother's connection and hoping that my landlord's "tech geek friend" will have my on-ramp to the information superhighway back up tonight. So, this is a long delayed post that I had done up in Word five days ago. Later.

I keep saying how it seems like the end of the season but we keep getting rewarded with beautiful days here and there. Yesterday was spectacular; Matt, David Bruneau, and myself headed out with sweaters and whatnot in tow. I sweated off the beginning of sledgehammer to start things off, and while lowing off a successful second go noticed beads of sweat on my forehead. I have never been so happy to have greased off a climb.

The big objective for today was an old project of mine called Something Heinous, a sandbagged 5.10d gear route. I had toproped it a few times this season and was ready to lead it a few weeks ago. Weather and other constraints kept this from happening and while I try not to feel like I “have” to do a climb the thought of leaving this route for another year was really bothering me. In the end it doesn’t matter to anything other than my own outlook whether or not I climbed this on lead vs. TR, but it was really nagging at me. I didn’t want the season to end without having taking on the challenge of trying the lead. There are routes I have tried on and off for years but I had really committed to this one at the beginning of this season and not following through on this commitment really wouldn’t sit right with me during the months where I couldn’t change my mind.

Something Heinous has a big reputation, but I have been continually finding that the reputation many Flatrock routes have is so much worse than the routes themselves. Here’s the rundown of this one:

The first bolt is at 18 ft and tops a V2 boulder problem that has a few holds of dubious stability.

Fourteen feet later you have an easy 5.9 move that leads good cam behind a large block that shouldn’t move. Should the climber fall just after the bolt he/she will be safe, if a fall occurs at the end of this section the belayer will have to run to take in slack and keep the climber off the ground, and even then the climber will swing into the bottom corner and roof pretty damn hard. It would be a genuinely bad idea to take this fall.

Another twelve feet after the cam you come to “the nest” the fixed nut, a good cam, and a good ballnut in a weird crack that will probably hold.

The crux is navigating up into a slightly overhanging crack, I used dueling gastons and very insecure funky jams. A fall here would be safe, something will hold for sure but the holds do not give you anything to sink your fingers into. Eventually, if you work your feet up high enough and feel around in the crack enough you hit a sinker thumbs down right finger lock and use this to make a move up and left to a jug on the overhanging wall.

From the jug you plug one or two bomber pieces. Matt does some laybacking at this point, for me this is the coolest part of the climb. You get two really cool thumbs up finger locks, get the feet up really high, duck back down under the locks and move right to a sloper. To finish, you work slopers with the right hand and the crack with the left before using small feet before gaining the ledge.

After I sent Matt got the gear beta and had a go himself which was quite the surprise to me. He had not been on this thing nearly as much as myself. Also, crack climbing is one of his very few weaknesses. He really went for it on this one and nearly fell going for the jug it was a really amazing send on his part. I haven’t checked the guidebook in a while, but I think it has been about six or seven years since this thing went up and to the best of my knowledge it has not been done since. Something Heinous is one of the best routes I have ever done, anywhere. Bouldery climbing on an overhanging wall, funky beta (hip scumming is almost mandatory), and an overhanging finger crack, all add up to a phenomenal route. I honestly believe I will do this route at least once a season for a long time, though maybe I'll bring a stick clip in the future.

After he got down Matt and I exchanged a quick look, both of us knew what kind of high the other was on. There aren't really words for it, either you know what it is or you don't. These kind of routes, what you go through when climbing them, is really something special. I feel like it takes a lot to get me excited, but finishing a route like this puts me beyond excited, it's a kind of elation born from putting yourself through something hard. Each one has a certain feel and this one was definitely something special. I really hope the community here continues to expand and more people develop the skills to take on routes like this.

Matt finishing the runout and learning how to crack climb on the fly.

Check out how the bolt only has a locking biner through it. Inches count.

Matt Before:

And After:

David Bruneau eating tuna and being David Bruneau.

The Work-Up

2009-09-27T19:42:00.007-02:30

For the past month and a half now I have been foster parent to a guinea pig. His name is Mortimer, he is an anxious little chubner. The thing about Mortimer is that every time I go to fill up his water bottle he loses it, as far as 12 inches of slightly obese guinea pig really lose it. I take his water bottle out of the cage and over to the sink and Mort frets, looking back and forth, running side to side in his cage until the bottle is returned. For a rodent he's pretty expressive, whenever I put the bottle back he has a look on his little face that says "Wtf Paul? Don't play with me like that." Mort doesn't learn. When the bottle is nearly empty and I take it out of the cage it's going to come back full. The fact that the bottle leaving is all he can think about and panic sets in.

Climbers are kind of like that, at least some of the time. I haven't been outside in about two weeks and today I noticed how much of a step back those two weeks have forced me to take. My endurance has deteriorated for sure, but more important is the feel of it all, the headspace. I did not feel solid today. Matt had to work at 1:00 and Trevor is out of town today so I headed out to hunt for some belay meat. I have a tendency to slack off a bit when the edge of the season approaches but I forced myself to throw the gear in the bag and enjoy what might be one of the last few good ones. Natalie dropped me off at the lot and I walked down to find Justin, who I had met months ago through Andrew Eaton, and John doing the toprope thing. We quickly toured through a few classics, lines I have been on far too many times. I felt shaky though, nervous at the prospect of climbing well protected sport climbs. It's irrational to be nervous about such routes but fear is rarely rational.

I toproped Maggie 5.11 cleanly my very first day in Flatrock. I think it was easier back then. Climbs like Maggie get made into a big deal. They're not. To butcher Descartes "I think it will be scary therefore it is." The thing is, when climbing a route like Maggie I already know what is going to happen. I know I'm going to do it and if I don't do it I know where I am going to fall and how that fall will go. There are some challenges to climbing in Flatrock. The exposure, the technical nature of the routes, etc. But it is not a dangerous area. The gear climbing is not as runout as it is made out to be, I have encountered far worse scarefests in New York and Red Rocks. The gear is generally pretty good, the abundant horizontals are pretty solid for both gear and rest stances. Short cruxes that hit you right away are the norm, I have very rarely found myself doing hard moves while high and runout on a route. When you really break it all down, do away with the scary stories and the hyperbole that build difficulty and sketch to absurd levels then you are left with some good gear climbing in an incomparable setting.

John was keen on doing Yellow Fever 5.9 on a fixed line so Justin headed up Maggie to access the anchors. He worked up the initial difficulties and took a fall where most people fall. A couple/lot of curses later any nuns in the area were blushing and Justin pulled back on to finish the route. The route was just a 5.11 with a short bouldery section, he had never led it before so he gave it a go. I did the route soon after him he came down but I think his effort was much better than my own. I felt like Mortimer must feel, all worked up over something that I have been thorough a million times and that I already know the ending of. I'll chaulk it up to an off day, but I am aware of how much my mindset can really take away from the enjoyment of it all. We get worked up and scared over nothing, literally nothing. We know and have sometimes experienced the plausible worst case scenario (plausible being worst case scenarios that actually might happen). There is still a fear there, I'll call it the "work-up" as it stems from our tendency to work things up in our heads. Others encourage it, groups of would-be heros chattering about how "crazy sick" something is or making grandiose the time they actually led a route, going for it four feet above a bolt. It's not wrong to be proud but being this kind of proud makes it harder for everyone to gets on that route after hearing the stories. The work-up comes from this, from hyperbole and stories about people who almost, once, kind of, could have, taken a bad fall on a route. Sometimes the more you know the harder you make a route. Grade deviation aside, 5.11 sport climbs generally take the same amount of effort. Today Maggie felt harder than a 5.11 sport climb. I took advantage of the progress I have made this season and in the end committed accepting the very limited consequences of a fall. I went for it, but I shouldn't have really had to "go for it."

The waves were crazy today shooting up forty or fifty feet at times. After the Maggie encounter Bob came down while Justin and myself toproped Ledge Dweller 5.12c. Justin fell off early and nearly gave John the "flying butt pliers." We had fun, got spanked on toprope and enjoyed some long overdue sun. As I see it the season is ending far too early, clearly I have much work left to do.

Violent waves, which you don't have to really worry about getting hit by when you have wings.

Bob showing Alexe and Jane that they do not have a monopoly on wearing dozens of colours at once. Like Alexe and Jane, Bob is truly awesome and rocks the Ty-Dye.

Please Don't Tease Me

2009-09-25T07:55:00.003-02:30

The Environment Canada forecast was abysmal, and then lo and behold that awkward new weatherman on CBC (not Ryan Snodden, he's the man, the other guy) goes ahead and says the weekend won't be too bad. Hmmm. Now the EC forecast is coming around. Check it out here.

If this turns out to be a tease I am going to go apeshit crazy. I have done very little climbing in the last few weeks and honestly feel like I am starting to lose my headspace a little. A sunny Sunday is exactly what is needed. We can get some filming done and even more importantly I can dispense with a certain project that has been nagging at me with a scary consistency. Here's hoping ladies and gentlemen. Here's hoping.

What "It" is.

2009-09-20T19:01:00.004-02:30

We always talk about climbing in Newfoundland like it could be something amazing. It’s a valid point, if everything that looks like it could be amazing is amazing then well, Trevor, Matt, and myself should have ordered six drills, four batteries, and enough bolts that should the need ever arise we could melt the lot down and build ourselves an aircraft carrier. This year I checked out five areas over a period of about eight days. One panned out. It’s disheartening walking in to hopefully find “It” and instead getting a bow wrapped box of choss. “It” for me is a beautiful wall near the ocean, 25m tall, and vertical to slightly overhanging in parts. I want splitter cracks, lots of them, and toss in some overhanging sport routes just for a little variety. I want to find “It” close to the city, and when and if I do I am going to build a house there and achieve a perfect balance between teaching and climbing. Maybe I'll cure cancer too and end me some world hunger.

The dream of “It” is what motivates me to head out to little outcroppings of rock that look so good from a distance. Let’s face it, scoping these areas alone out is up there on the list of thankless jobs. I could go on about how it is good to be outside and whatever but honestly it’s like meeting a cute nurse while at the hospital after shooting yourself in the ass with a nail gun; good moments aside, it's still not what I call fun. Going on these little treks means sacrificing, you give up time, precious weekend hours that could be spent, oh I don't know, maybe climbing? Maybe going out for lunch with someone who's far cuter than that nurse you met that time. Throw in a few people, on the trek, not the date, and things lighten up a bit and it is in this vein that I throw out a few internet scoured pictures and and place names that I want to check out sometime in the near future. If you have any similar possibilities let me know or better yet post something in the comments section.

I'm heading out tomorrow pending no calls for work in the morning. If anyone is up for it give me a call 743-5852. Later.

Paul

Cape Coromont, has anyone been here?

The Dungeon in Bonavista, I have always wanted to try Deep Water Soloing.

This is what is around the corner from Main Face and Spanky's

I am pretty sure this wall is tucked in the cove, the edge of which is in the middle of the previous pic.

Witless Bay Ecological Preserve, it could be choss but those cliffs in the background look nice

Damn, I Hope This Works

2009-09-17T19:31:00.005-02:30

The past week has been a little uneventful climbing wise. I made it to the gym a few times in an attempt to max out my finger strength. My body is starting to really break down especially in in regards to my back. About nine months ago the muscles in my lower back became so tight that they pulled a rib away from the spine, I went from standing around talking in the Wallnuts boulder cave to face down flattened out. I dropped like someone hit me with a bat, no bracing all face plant. I once read that you are always climbing your best right before you get injured. I am really flirting with that line now. One more month is all I need though, after that I will rest, recover and get massaged into jelly, not jello that shit is too stiff. Jelly.

Anyways, this weekend looks to be a bust. If it's not I might cry. I looked at the forecast and agreed to do some coaching for Wallnuts on Sunday. Should it be beautiful on Sunday this blog will no longer be all ages friendly. I will lose it, loudly. With the weather being what it is and work starting when it did (though I actually do love my work) I thought it would be a good time to inject a little psych into my aching body. Check out the embedded clips, get psyched up, skip work on Tuesday, and come out for what looks to be the best of it for a while.

Matt Segal is one of the new generation of climbers that grew up in the gym, climbed hard, went trad. The sad truth is hundreds upon hundreds of people have wired 5.14's and sent. Very few have the strength to climb at this level placing gear and even fewer have acquired the headspace to really push it that which comes out of cracks. I have a lot of respect for those that go this route.

Matt Segal 5.14 trad from renan ozturk on Vimeo.

Also, a trailer that has footage from two upcoming movies. The progression footage looks stellar. If the guys at BigUp can match a storyline to their cinematography the result will be nothing short of leaps and bounds beyond what is currently out there. Enjoy!

Thanks

2009-09-17T12:18:00.005-02:30

I'd just like to send out a short note of thanks. I couldn't be me happy with the response we've been getting with this blog. Props to Paul for coming up with the idea. We're averaging around 30 hits/day and that number has been steadily increasing. The graph below is a time history plot of visitors per day.

I've been coming into work a few nights this week to take advantage of our machine shop. I've been working on cleaning up the ice climbing gear - sanding it all down, sharpening it up, and painting it. A few more nights work and they should be good as new for the winter.

Also, I sat down last night and went through most of the footage on my HD (all 700 GB of it). I'm pretty satisfied with what I managed to capture over the past 3 years. Not completely done yet, but all that's really left that's essential is interviews/voiceovers and things like that. All leg work that does not depend on the weather/time of year for the most part. I think I'm going to get started on that asap and then it's time to sit down with a case of blackhorse and start editing. Fun times!

Breach Website Back Online!

2009-09-15T19:16:00.011-02:30

I'm pleased to announce that the website is back up and running! Feel free to spread the word. I've include a bit more info this time around. There's also a signup for a mailing list I'm starting to compile. No spamming, I promise. Check out the link below.

http://www.breachclimbingmovie.com/

The website was up last year for exactly a year duration but due to the delay in the movie, I never maintained it. However, as Paul so discovered, it did get some exposure in UK somehow. I'm not sure how this individual found it, but he wrote a post about the movie/site on his personal blog.

http://www.bad-altitude.co.uk/2008/06/breach-newfoundland-climbing-film.html

The Good, The Bad, and Some Ugly Wind

2009-09-13T18:08:00.007-02:30

Yesterday took all the good things about Flatrock, the good people, the vibe, and of course the climbing and transported them into a wind stripped exercise in frustration. I lost a chock, a small wallnut that is wedged deep in a crack. The damn thing teased me for almost a half an hour rattling down into a bottle neck but refusing to come out. I was less than pleas, my legs were less than awake from hanging in the harness, and I was cold, damn cold. The good news is that Trevor get some filming done, which he deserves. I realized something about a route that has been bugging me for a while, my priorities are now firmly set on doing it before the season ends, and of course, Matt did his latest project. Super impressive, having someone around who pushes it on a regular basis is like a rally cry for everyone else to step their game up. It makes you want to try harder, pull harder, and jump on what scares you. With the weather starting to change as it is now is the time to push. Thanks for the reminder Matt.

Despite the wind, Saturday brought out a fair crowd, a dozen or so total.

As it happened, the majority of said crowd were female:

It was getting to the point that I couldn't even find a spot to use the washroom in peace. Thanks for breaking out the camera Nat.

A Trevor Harris production in full swing, including a very dedicated camera(wo)man

Oh, a little btw... the three of us also bought a drill last night. The new route machine arrives in two weeks. If we can string together a few dry days here and there it is not unrealistic to think that we will have 4-6 new routes or projects (depending on what gets sent) for next season. I'm already psyched for next year.

The end is just the beginning....

2009-09-12T23:43:00.004-02:30

HOLY Sir climb alot. I love flatrock. not only flatrock for the climbing but the people i have been spending it with lately. So chill, so right on, just so.... themselves. It blows my mind the vibe we feed off each other and how it helps us get motivated on the days when well...... we arnt so motivated. Two individuals particularly are Paul and Trevor, the combination of Trevor "ya man whatever its all good i'l get on that!" and Paul " this climb is so beautiful the moves are just amazing!" Just rocks my world. These two bys just like it for what it is. and they both get me pretty f&!*n stoked. Thanks bys. Anyways on two the climbing, I know people are saying the climbing season is coming to a close but to me i feel like it has just re bloomed . The past week has been nuts, it has seemed that i have re gained my interest in trad and with Paul it seems like the end of the beamer is our limit ( pretty big limit). Today we were out doing a little bit of filmaaan, gettin our climb on as youshh when i decided i wanted to try and lead the line farewell to arms direct (As Paul discussed below) I sussed out the gear on rappel then gave er a burn, not to my surprised i fell placing the second peace.I came down,gained composure,got my breathing back and went again this time managing to bare down and pull the moves to the top ( pulled it somewhere outta my ass.. idunno) Anyways i felt that this line was something special a line that deserves credit because this is the way the line should have went the first time it was sent. It is so cool not very flatrock like what so ever. ( God bless its cotton socks.) But ya the line chalanges you physicaly and mentally. and the moves are the buisness. anyways im tired and i might be climbin tomorrow so fellow bloggers and random drop byers keep on rocking the free world.

Matt

The Newness

2009-09-11T19:24:00.006-02:30

I’m a little sad to say it but yesterday might very well have been one of the last summer days at Main Face. The weather was perfect, a couple from Vancouver showed up, guidebooks in hand, touques on heads, and jackets zipped. I think they were somewhat surprised to find Matt and myself in little more than jeans. They shed some layers and hopped on MC Hammer 5.10a, apparently they got the memo from my previous post. As for Matt and I, we decided to check out the newness.

Everyone gets burned out a little from time to time. I’m not quite there but there are a limited number of routes left to do at Main Face. As mentioned before a lot of lines have been scoped out so today we decided to do more than just talk about them. There is room for two sport routes over by Iron Hand 5.9 that will be about the height of a typical gym route. However, since rock always trumps plastic these routes are still worth putting in the effort needed to establish.

The leftmost line climbs a cool bulge, with sloppy hands and the occasional heel hook, it goes at around 10a. It’s less bulgy sister line is considerably harder. As per the normal modus operandi Matt and I used vastly different beta to climb the same section rock. The section we climbed was sadly only the bottom half of the route which goes at around 11 c or d. The top half, well pffffttt. I have no idea, it is hard, crimpy hard. I am not psyched for it, vertical crimp fests are neither my forte nor my cup of tea. Matt however is built for them. Tiny little fingers, a good sense of balance, excellent flexibility, strong strength to weight ratio, I could continue but my jealousy is seeping through. I'll stick to the overhung faces with big moves between decent holds. Anyone seen one of these around? Bah!

The routes in question, the moderate bulge is to the left of the leftmost rope. The blank hardness climbs under the right rope.

Guess which one Matt is on?

Aside from these two we checked out a variation on Farewell to Arms 5.11a or b (where is that damn guidebook?) Anyway, the original line goes up a flared crack to a horizontal under a roof, traverses right along the horizontal to a rest where you can chill, chalk up, eat a sandwich, paint a nice impressionist landscape (oil on canvas) before traversing back so you are over the roof and can clip a bolt and fire the final boulder problem with your painting in tow. Of course, the question is "What's wrong with the roof?"

Farewell to Arms, the original line hits the first horizontal then traverses around the corner then up to the big break.

The roof is the cool kid in this clique of flaring crack, wrist slicing slopers, and finger cutting crimps (see below). It's just hanging with those dweebs because it's so cool it doesn't care. Which is the coolest of cool. Matt used core strength to match feet and pull through via a beautiful athletic sequence. Me being not so athletic pulled out the old man tactics, leaning back off a hand jam to snarl a crimp then knee barring, yes knee barring, to gain the good stuff. The horizontal below the roof takes gear and this is the better, more direct line. You still get the big rest but this way you've earned it. Yes, we realize we are foolish for climbing things the more difficult way, is it a variation, a new route, or idiocy? The answer is "we don't care, cus it's fun, a lot of fun" and apparently climbing is supposed to be just that. The categories don't really apply in such cases because we aren't applying them. Does that make us cool?

Got Tape?

The weather is looking good for today and I am heading out in about an hour or so, I hope anyone who sees this has as much fun today as I'm going to.

Fresh with a capital "fffffffffff"

2009-09-10T19:28:00.008-02:30

I like first ascents, it can be a bit of an ego thing but I can't fool myself into thinking that I don't care about doing new routes. It is a weird process too, finding a line and approaching it with no preconceived notions, it just is what it is; there is just a route and a climber, a climber who is blissfully ignorant of anything more than a vague idea of how challenging the potential route might be.

This week we put bolts on top of MC Hammer 5.10a and it's like having a new route. Aside from the numb shoulders and raw hands that came out of swinging a hammer and twisting a drill for an hour, it was actually a pretty cool process. No one was doing MC, now it's the village bicycle. It is a fantastic bit of climbing, jams, jugs, solid gear throughout, definitely one of the better lines down by the water. With the recent traffic it is apparently cleaning up nicely, and it deserves such traffic. When I got back on it I recalled how scared I was the first time, sketching my way up and copping out by moving into the corner to calm down both the pump and the fear. This time I approached it for what it is, a 5.10 crack and face route, which is objectively well within my onsight limit. I shoved aside the intimidation and climbed, just happy to be on such a fine piece of climbing again. My intention had been to do it without using the corner for a "new variation". Honestly, I don't think the original ascent used said corner as doing it direct didn't change the grade. Any variations on this climb would be of the "Hey! You can't use that hold!" variety and I don't want to stoop to that crap. The line is what it is, do what you want with it, get what you want to get out of it.

There are a number of new routes to go up at Main Face. Off the top of my head I can think of four extremely hard trad routes that are just there, waiting as they have been for years. Two moderate to difficult crack lines that need bolts at the top, one needs a little cleaning; both should fall without too much trouble. One mixed route that needs the hangers re-oriented, long story. And, Myself and Matt have scoped out at least two new sport routes, a short classic looking moderate and a similarly vertically challenged testpiece.

All of these potentials combined with the repeats I would like to do leaves me praying for a late winter. It has been getting colder, fast. The days are getting short and bad conditions down at Main Face have gone from being uncomfortable to just suffering. Below are some old pics of a toprope soloing day where I worked one of the aforementioned projects. The line starts on Drop the Mental 5.9 and cuts right through some fun trad and then hard bolted sections, it is long and surprisingly hard.

I am going down tomorrow to enjoy the sunshine, we might actually get a decent crew down there. Saturday, well, I'm going out; it might be cold but bring a jacket or six and an ability to laugh off bad conditions. Saturday should be fun.

The Bottom Three Quarters: The Top Three Quarters:

The ocean was this crazy emerald colour on

this day. The picture doesn't do it justice.

Me doing the solo thing, looking all squinty.

Bird's Eye

2009-09-10T14:34:00.000-02:30

Found this pic online, not sure who took it and thus who to give credit for it, but I thought it gave a nice persepctive on the beamer. To the far left you can see Flaccid ledge and Dark Water is well defined as well. Cool pic.

Just Yanno... Talk About It

2009-09-06T20:57:00.010-02:30

So I finally met the new welcomed developer, Justin, today. Turns out I actually met him in Stiles Cove over this winter when I was filming Leo on some ice climbing. Just didn't link the two together until today. He's a really nice guy full of energy and enthusiasm. Very approachable. He was out today getting a few burns in on some lines with his soloist - just loving the day. I, on the other hand, had work to do!

Today I finished filming the jr. climbing club section of the film with Alexe and Jane. Jane had a few burns on Size Matters Not and finished the day off on Flaccid while sporting her new lime green helmet. From there we headed down near the water for a chat over the camera. Both girls were just talking it up about things from how they started climbing, trips they've been on, how climbing made them who they are, and everything in between. All said and done we just talked it up for about 40 minutes. It'll make some great voiceovers and whatnot for the film. Good days worth of work done!

Jane on Size matters not

Long Day, Long Post

2009-09-05T16:25:00.009-02:30

The more that I think about this whole blogging thing the more it seems counter to what I have been doing the last few years. Honestly, when I tell those that know me about this thing the usual reaction is disbelief followed by the strong belief that I will just stop posting once the novelty has worn off. I have always felt that climbing is a personal thing, done by me for me. Climbing, as I see it, is not the physical action that you do but rather the internal process that you undergo as you move over rock. Relating this to people is like catching a frisbee with your teeth, you're probably not going to do it and even if you do there's a pretty good chance you're going to look like an idiot. I understand that this blog may be seen as an ego trip by some, bullshit by many, but I see it as a way to build the community further, bring what we already have together, and have a little fun besides.

I climbed alone for years, literally years. Me and my crashpad or traxion getting belays if people happened to be out. After having a good crew this past season and then tasting the alone thing again last week the traxion/crashpad are now firmly reserved for days when they are the only choice. Now, if only we could add a few more crew members...

Today is a rest day in response to the long day we had yesterday. I arrived at the crag around 10:30 and got home almost nine hours later. Factor in that I now live in the east end and you can come to the fair conclusion that yesterday was a big one.

The priority for the day was filling in the holes we drilled on Thursday whit shiny new bolts. Done and done, come Monday Matt and I have some work to do on MC Hammer, he hopes to send it while I am going to be working on straightening out the line through a more logical and harder middle section.

The before picture and Matt with his bolting kit which, to

my surprise contains a Crocodile Dundee-esg knife, he

knows what he's doing though:

My big thing for the day was to finally set up a project that I have been eyeing for quite some time. Jekyl and Hyde is an aid route that holds the duel distinction of being both the best free climb in Flatrock as well as the Flatrock's worst route to set up a toprope on. The process involves setting up a gear anchor on Operation Recuperation 5.9+ rapping down on a single line, swinging over, and building another gear anchor while fighting the swing. The whole deal takes an hour and leaves my legs numb; it's a necessary evil as the route will take quite a bit of work, I just wish there were an easier way.

The reason I put myself through all this is, as I mentioned above, their isn't a better route down there. The line follows a thin seam at that opens up in spots to reveal funky finger and toe jams; just when the crack closes off crimpers appear out right allowing passage to a tips crack section that leads under a large roof. This initial crack/face gets progressively harder with the move up to a rest under the route capping the difficulties. This section alone goes at 5.11 and on it's own would be a classic pitch. Even Susan R. liked it and she well... Susan and jams, cats and swimming lessons; same thing. It was great to see Susan out by the way, I mean "btw" see kids I'm still cool. Fresh people = fresh motivation.

The roof is the business, tense moves, a key toe hook, and a lot of slapping on some funky barely there holds. Like the crack below it there are just enough holds to negotiate this feature, just enough. Matt moved well through the first four moves yesterday only to realize that the difficulties are far from over. I noticed on one of my trips down what was going to be involved. So the route breaks down to a 5.11 crack and face at the end of which you will have to put in two or three pieces in case later pieces fail. After this you get an okay rest off which you place a tips sized cam and possibly a ballnut before embarking through the crux, a seven to nine move V6 that leads to a good rest and good gear. From there all that's left is 30m of really fun 5.9 the business of which is in the first 15m. The whole deal is 50m and you have to use a lot of numbers to describe it.

The whole thing is perfect. For myself it is right at the limits of what I can do physically and I am prepared to take on mentally. Right now, for me, it is the perfect challenge. I just wish it was easier to work. Well, we'll say almost perfect then.

Susan testing out the starting holds:

Myself, setting up the toe hook and starting the crux:

Soo, does this make me a blogger?

2009-09-03T21:23:00.004-02:30

Though I'm embarrassed to say it, today was my first day out climbing since my return from B.C. Between work, driving school, and the weather, there just hasn't been time. Although I don't necessarily feel that I accomplished a whole lot today, it was definitely nice to be back climbing. Needless to say though, my 6-week break didn't make me any less scared when Trevor asked me if I wanted to lead Easy Company. Despite feeling nervous, I said I'd consider it, but that I would like to hop on it on top-rope first. Unfortunately, following a terrifying spider situation on the last moves of the climb, I decided I wasn't quite feeling up to leading it today and opted to get on an easier (and hopefully spider-free) route. Candy, thankfully, was considerably less spider-ridden, and I felt calm and relaxed both times that I lead it, despite being on the other side of the camera for the first time.

Okay, so maybe my first day back wasn't everything I hoped it would be, but maybe I need to lower my expectations. Today was a fun day out climbing with some friends (not to mention the perfect weather), and perhaps that's all I should hope for... not every day is going to be some hardcore sending session. Saying this, I do hope that there's a few of those days in store for me in the near future, seeing as I have only about a month to start and finish my summer tick-list.

Paste Witty Title Here Later

2009-09-03T19:16:00.008-02:30

Blog posts have been a little sparse lately, in my defense this week has been crazy and little climbing has been done. Andrew Eaton moved to Calgary and spending some time with him became a priority, I am also in the process of unpacking as I move into a new apartment. Anyone who has ever done the latter understands what is involved especially when you cannot go get items that get used everyday, like say forks as you are expecting some to be coming in from storage on the west coast. Pity Me. Anyway, enough with the excuses.

I have been trying to mix it up the last week, honestly I am getting a little burned out. Climbing is getting a little too much like work, it's not bad, I just feel like there are things I have to do before the season ends. I am not going to get everything done, there's no way, there is that self imposed pressure of getting done the few things that I really need to take care of. This past week I have headed out alone to delve into the clusterfriggery that is top-rope soloing a project...a project above the ocean... an ocean that likes to soak thirty feet of your rope as you try to hold up your bag attached to the rope to help it run smoothly through your device... then, well, it's a heinous process. The project in question has been a pain in the ass. It is a abandoned project so some of the hangers are upside down; I brought down wrenches to fix things, none of the five wrenches fit. The gear part will go but a bolt protected top bit puzzled me. Oh well, put it on the list.

As Trevor mentioned we headed over to the International Wall to check out some new things. Newfoundlanders suck at onsighting. It's true. The limited number of routes and the nature of said routes wears down our ability to read, decipher, and commit. Top-roping before leading is unfortunately the norm. The other norm here is that to put up a new route you have to either put in a crazy amount of work cleaning and bolting (a la Dr. O'Regan) or get on the sharp end and plug gear on one of the many unclimbed features. A precious few of us know where to look for these little diddys. Trevor found one at the International Wall, Fin and Feather 5.8 awaits a repeat.

The International Wall:

Today was a semi rest day. The crew was out but not a whole lot got climbed. The big project of the day for me and Matt was drilling two holes on MC Hammer 5.10. It is a great line but never done as the gear belay has to be set up down and to the right of the top of the route. Should the second fall after taking out the last piece he/she/other will get hurt. The bolts will not impact the experience of the line from a mental standpoint and while I am the last person to add bolts to things I believe this is the right decision. Had the first ascentionest been able to do this I believe it would have been a no brainer. The line is unchanged, one can now retrieve their gear without putting the second at risk; seconds are just belay meat anyway, and belay meat is currently a very precious commodity ;)

The Crew:

Alexe, making a fashion statement with the leg warmers:

Anyway, tomorrow morning is sport climbing day. If you want to clip some bolts give me a call or just show up at Main Face 'round 'bouts 9:30 am. Some fresh blood would help keep the psych fires burning. The season is getting short boys and girls have at it while you can.

Later

Fin and Feather

2009-09-03T17:58:00.003-02:30

That’s right folks, another line established. Wednesday Paul and I headed to the international area to get some mileage in on the new sport routes. Paul was quick to onsight 3 of the lines, and me… well… Let’s just say I made sure the bolts were glued in properly. I must say, the area is both secluded and had some good quality lines. Great place to get some mileage in quick. I’d recommend bringing two ropes, the top bolts are place far back so you’d want a rap line set up.

We then set up a TR on a trad line I eyed with Matt Scott a few months ago. The line is to the left of the 4 bolted lines in the new area - 10 m of vertical parallel flakes in the corner, hard to miss. I played around with the gear a bit and dialed in the moves. This route is a big thing for me. I’ve never established a new route before, it felt good to do so. The route is short and sweet. See the pics below. I must note the perspective is a bit off as I am closer to the camera than the route in the background. The moves are nice - classic lay backing, great friction, and the gear is pretty good too. The send went relatively smoothly with a minor spaz out while placing the 2nd last piece – but it didn’t take too much effort for me to calm myself and get back in the game. Fin and Feather – 5.8.

In other news, Paul and Matt were out today and drilled some bolt holes at the top of MC Hammer, something that needed to be done for a while. We’re talking about splitting a bolt gun between us all and in doing so I guess we’ll be taking the pledge to keep the established ethics in order. Gotta be keen on that. Nadine and I also filmed Alexe for a section on the film. I plan on getting Jane on something as well – the intention is to have them talk and profile the junior team as a section of the film. That’s all for now!

Who's In?

2009-08-25T20:36:00.000-02:30

Yo, I'm heading out tomorrow if anyone is up for it give me a call, 743-5852. Whatever time I head out is currently dependent on my ride situation, unless someone with a car gives me a call and doesn't mind coming to Mount Pearl (bah!) to get me. Later.

Paul

Beatdown

2009-08-25T08:43:00.001-02:30

For the first time in a long time, last night I went to the gym to climb. This week has been quite unproductive climbing-wise. Andrew Eaton is moving to Calgary next week, this combined with Natalie's friend Cassandra being in town has led to more socializing and less rock scaling. I could blame it on the weather but the truth is seeing people has been a priority. Also, it is hard to tour guide when your boyfriend has the car parked at Flatrock for five hours.

So yesterday was spent bouldering on wood and plastic, falling on big mats, and being weak. Climbing indoors requires a different kind of strength than that which rock sucks out of you. My technique is the best it has been in years right now but vertical trad climbing, and even slightly overhanging sport climbing, do not power breed. I bouldered for a while and marveled at the fact that with ten or so people in the gym I only recognized one of them. This was a far cry from the old usual of talking to at least a dozen people before lacing up; the winter should bring that back soon enough. After flailing on the boulder problems I hit the campus board hoping to cultivate a little finger strength. WEAK! was the word of the day. I used to be pretty good at that damn thing, now...not so much. The theory is: technique + feel for the rock x good head + awesome finger strength = "mad sendage" as the kids say. Despite the fact that "mad sendage" sounds like a Tim Burton movie it would be nice to get a few more things done.

The campus board was a struggle. All of it was a struggle actually. The whole inside thing is just so hard on the joints, I can feel it now in my fingers, left shoulder, and right elbow; a myriad of old injuries and aggravations that flare up when power takes to the place of skill. Despite it's destructive qualities I love the campus board, in small doses. In many ways I enjoy it more than bouldering indoors. The campus board is standard, truly quantifiable. I know how strong I am on it because there is an exact measure of how far I can pull. I can't skip holds because I am tall or find that tricky heel hook that brings things down a grade; the campus board is simple, can you grab the next rung? Unfortunately, yesterday I couldn't grab very far. It is fun to get spanked though, I like getting beaten down a little bit, having things be too hard. You improve so fast when everything is a struggle when you have to push hard on each go instead of just cruising through your "routine" doing the same old same old until you are old and the same.

Tomorrow looks perfect weather-wise and I am hoping to get out and get back at it. Linegar might be game, if we can get a ride we'll be set. Anybody want to come? Do you have a car? Am I truly pathetic? I hope everyone enjoys the sunshine, there seems to be quite a bit of it coming.

Story Time

2009-08-24T15:46:00.000-02:30

Belayer/Spotter 1: "hey man/missis - just go for it!"
Climber: "I can't reach it, I'm not tall enough"
Belayer/Spotter: "Sure you can, *insert name here* is shorter than you and he/she’s done it before!"
Climber: "Yeah, but he/she is stronger than me"

I hear this conversation or a small variation of this conversation at least once a week over the winter season. There's two things I'd like to note and talk about.

First of all the climber here has obviously placed a complete mental block on the move they are having trouble committing to. They've came up with a reason - I'm too short - to justify their incapability for committing. Once this reason has been debunked by their partner, they come up with another one both instantaneously and automatically that takes the place of the former.

It's odd, but your mental state has much more control over your physical state than you might think. I've only came to terms with this fact and started to accept it in more recent times. You may or may not be capable of completing a move right now, but that's not an issue, it's not a problem - rather, it's something to work on. If we didn't have to work to complete a climb, there would be no point in climbing it. It's all a learning process.

The second thing I'd like to talk about in this short dialogue may not be as obvious as the first. The climber has compared their progress and ability to someone else. This is a very hard thing to avoid, but you shouldn't. The partner is also at fault here by mentioning another person. As emphasized in an earlier post - climbing is a person thing. Weather you complete a climb or not will not change the world in any way so don't pretend that it will. Sure, it may be disappointing if you don't make your project, but it only affects you and how you feel. Climb for yourself – and nobody else…

That concludes my rant for this week :)

The Rock

2009-08-22T20:44:00.000-02:30

I just finished watching the recent Newfoundland climbing film at Eatons house and I must say, it was fantastic. Great job to John and all those involved in making the film. Great shots, great colors, and just the right ammount of climber profiling. I'm gonna reccomend everybody to pick up a copy weather your a climber or not. I just hope he prints some more copys for us all. Again, fastastic film.

Hog town? dosage v?

2009-08-22T02:14:00.000-02:30

Hey my fellow climbing companions. I have been in toronto now for 2 days and 2 more to go before i get back to the "rock" ( in both senses). I have a question though, why in gods name is toronto also named hog town? I dont see many hogs romeing dt toronto or anything around that makes me think. " hey.... im chillin hog town" i guess its kinda cool? anyways so far my trip has consisted of 4 hours spent at mec lookin at climbing equipment, reading mags, and purchasing a few odds and ends for my climbing endeavors.

On thursday i purchased Dosage volume 5 the most resent big up productions movie out to date. and i must say i thoroughly enjoyed it. The filming simply blew my mind away and the majority of the climbing made me cry a lil. ( definitely need to hit up spain sometime soon) although it did have its boring parts something made me stay and watch the movie. When it was over my palms were sweaty and still tonight after just watching the deleted scene footage i cant wait to go back home to head out climbing. anyways im hitting up canadas wonderland tomorrow , maybe find some kind of climbing feature to tickle my fancy out there.

peace easy

matt

Vision? Idiocy?

2009-08-21T17:38:00.000-02:30

It's been a few days since I have posted anything. Honestly, I haven't been climbing much. The weather was good today but Natalie got into town yesterday and then the car broke down today; my beloved beater is getting on the last of its legs. I may be going out tomorrow, it being Saturday maybe more than a handful of people will be out. We shall see, maybe.

My vision for this blog as of late is to turn it into a community thing. In the for the last few months it has just been a place for me to work on my writing and keep record of what I have done this season. I needed to do this, I took a two week trip to the Gunks and didn't take a single picture. Trevor and Matt have started to post and I am looking to include others. We do not have a big enough community to maintain a message board, despite a valiant effort from Linegar a few years back to do so. I want this to be a place where people could see what's good and where the people are. I'll talk about routes I have done or seen done but for me it is more about putting thoughts done for my own purpose. I really do think that this little site could serve a bigger purpose than that; but seriously, let's not be too serious about it all.

Linegar is hosting a comp tonight, he gave me the details a little while back. It sounds like a great idea and I was thinking about going out and embarrassing myself throughly but I believe Nat and I are spending the night visiting friends that she has not seen in many months. If anyone is going out to Main Face tomorrow give me a call 743-5852. Later.

The Darcy Street Crew

2009-08-18T23:20:00.000-02:30

Good day with the Darcy street crew!

Josh Scott keepin it together on candy 5.7

Matt Scott reaching the top of Pot Head 5.12b

Matt Scott Toe Hooking the buisness out of that roof geting ready for the first crux on Pot Head 5.12b

David Bruno Skipping the high step and chucking for the thank god hold on Pot Head 5.12b

Hey folks! This is my first blog ever.......ever.........ever.......ever! emphasize on the ever. If you guys didnt know i would just like to point out i am very fortunate to have a very competent strong climber who is not only one of my very reliable partners but MY NEXT DOOR NEIGHBOUR!!!! Pretty cool eh? Me and david bruno have been friends for as long as i can remember growing up on darcy street, and we both got into climbing roughly around the same time. After a few seasons of outdoor climbing it is only this year we have begun to climb outdoors together consistantly.

This past week david has been taking my brother josh and JP (another darcy street member) out bouldering with a pad, a chalk bag, and one pair of five ten aproach shoes as the communal climbing shoe because they couldnt suck it up and put on my old size 6 la sportiva muiras which really look like a womans size 4. Cudos to david for taking them out and getting them super stoaked, all josh talks about now is going out and "sessioning the boulders." Anyways one day after a hard day of sending on the boulders i said we should head to main face for the day and with no hesitation all scheduals were cleared for the next day and rental shoes and harness were picked up from wallnuts and we were ready for what i call a "real session"

9 am we were all full tilt throwing the gear in the car and trying to figure out how my make shift stick clip would fit in the car. ( two broom handles taped together with a clamp duct taped on the end.) When we arived we were greeted by paul and trevor who were already down there climbing.. ....... sorry if my story starts to get breif its late and i gotta sleeeeeeep. ......... anyways I set up yellow fever on top rope for JP and Josh. Because they were already belay certified me and david could go do our own thing for a while. As the day went on jp and josh took turns slowly one uping each other on the climb until they came to the crux which had them dumbfounded (if thats a word). but for there first time ever outside on a rope they did so so sick! Eventualy Jp had to leave so me josh david paul and trevor all kept climbing. Earlyer in the day me and paul were talking about the new line i bolted, 'pot head' a direct start to fifth element which is a 5.11c, but this bottom section seems to be very stout as it requires unbelievable finger strength and power to get through the first 20 ft of the direct climb. Paul jumped on and sessioned the buissness out of that bottom section figuring out that instead of using my funky technical beta to get over the roof he just had to chuck for the sloped out pocket. In 3 or 4 trys he had the pocket stuck but couldnt manage to pull the next move which consists of a highstep and locking off on that slopey pocket. Super strong though, if you are able to climb all day and then hop on a 12b for the last climb of the day and pull half way through the crux moves thats nuts! Once paul was done me and david hopp'd on. Once we were done i felt half bad that my bro only did one climb, so we went down to candy for my brother to try, which turned out to be an ultimate succes. then we called it a day. Pretty sweet day with the crew and paul and trevor.

One Down...So Many More

2009-08-18T10:10:00.000-02:30

Be forewarned, I actually have pictures to go along with this one. With all this nice weather, the last of the sun for a long time it looks like, Trevor, myself, and whoever else showed up down at Main Face have been climbing...a lot. It's strange how things work out sometimes. Sunday I was super focused on doing Dark Water. I thought about it all night, went over the gear in my head, focusing, focusing, blah, blah, blah. Then we got rained out. Yesterday I was actually psyched for another project. We got down to Main Face and through a toprope up on another old project and it felt horrendously hard. I was completely insecure throughout. In the back of my mind I had contemplated leading this thing then and there but wasn't really feeling it after two toprope burns. We couldn't film Dark Water because no one was around to operate the video machines and I only intended on doing that thing once so the day was going to be thrown into the unproductive bin.

But around 12:30 look who should show up but Linegar, Beth, and Anna Callahan. Mmmm....belay meat. Trevor had a look at Dark Water and it was completely dry. All the pieces were falling into place, except for the fact that Trevor had to leave for work in an hour and a half. I really did want to get this route done and Trevor deserves to film what he wants to film. The guy has put so much effort into all this, I really want him to be satisfied with the footage he has. As this particular route isn't dry very often I decided to take advantage of this one and led up the adjacent Easy Company 5.10c to simultaneously check the gear, enable Trevor to get into position, and go over the stances from which to place gear. I was unsure of the order for the nuts I was using so I wanted to suss things a bit. The original plan to to mock lead this thing one more time, but we were in now or never mode.

So when it was all said and done Linegar belayed, Trevor filmed, and I climbed. This route is safe in that you would be okay falling on it, but the prospect of falling on very small gear demands a certain measure of concentration. This is one of the most beautiful aespects of trad. Everything gets really quiet. Your mind is scared so it focuses on everything. You notice all the little pebbles as subconsciously you are looking at every option to get you out of this situation. The rock seems more textured, holding more shades of colour. You slow down, way down. I felt more locked it, more solid doing that climb on the lead than I ever have doing it on toprope. There are two distinct cruxes, one a long move right, the other a slightly easier move to a crimp on a slightly overhanging bulge. Both went very smoothly, normally I have to chuck just a little moving right, this time I staticed it feeling my body get tight but never feeling desperate or out of control. It's like my mind was allocating exactly how much strength to use in case the reserves had to be called up later. The moves flowed, I sent. More importantly, I got a taste of how trad felt when I first started doing it. It is a vehicle for a very special mental state, and that state is a big reason why I got further and further involved with this type of climbing.

Later on, after Trevor left for work. I ran another two laps on the other scary trad project. By the end I had figured out the final jams and on the last burn my feet cut but I did not fall. I hung there, suspended by two thumbs up jams on an overhanging piece of rock wondering why I was not sitting on a rope. Eventually, I figured out what had happened and stayed there laughing before pasting the feet back on and finishing the route. That thing will go soon, and it dries much faster than Dark Water 5.10b.

Dark Water is a weird climb. The movement is amazing and the holds quite unique for Main Face. I am aware of the bias that exists for your own routes but I honestly believe that this is one of the best routes down there. The gear is small and tricky to place. An onsight of this climb would be quite impressive and not something I am capable of at the moment. That is kinda my rule for establishing mentally challenging climbs, if I can legitimately onsight it I won't work it as a mental project. There is no sense for a 5.11 climber to put up super scary 5.8 climbs. That is just an ego trip. While we were getting the anchors down for the day I climbed Dark Water again on toprope. I felt all over the place and wet. Oddly enough it got wet again. Just hours later on the same sunny day. We had just enough time to climb it. It's like putting nickels in the slot machine. You just keep showing up down there, keep plugging away. You'll get rained out, see bad conditions, freeze in the wind. But, eventually you hit a pay out, maybe even a jackpot. Below is the route in question, thanks to Trevor for the pics. I need to get a camera.

Rained Out

2009-08-16T16:02:00.000-02:30

Tried to do some filming today, specifically Paul on his dark water project. Started to speckle when we put on our harnesses then we spent the next 20 or so hiding under the price is right roof. This not only sets us back today, but possibly longer due to the route's susceptibility to being wet after a rainfall. I'm still in high spirits however, I've been at this long enough to not get upset over one lost day. As Nadine said: the walk was a great way to start the day. The rain didn't melt the rock away, and there's plenty of time left just yet. Next plan of action: possibly the new (maybe) route at international wall.

In other news, I booked the INCO centre for the showing of breach (Mark your calendars - Feb 20th). I'm gonna be honest folks, booking it kinda made me nervous. Puts a real deadline on the film - also kinda weird since I'm not done filming yet. But editing shouldn't' take too long, I've edited longer and harder films in a shorter time before. Just hope it's not a let down!

Plans

2009-08-15T10:41:00.000-02:30

Today is a rest day, somewhat self imposed and somewhat forced. I've been out the last few days working a few projects, hitting up a few new things. For the last while I have been trying to adhere to one simple rule when going down to Flatrock: everyday, get on something significant. Significant being either a new route, a project, something that is really hard for you, or something that requires a significant amount of mental control. Gotta keep the cobwebs off.

Sunday I hope to do the Dark Water project. The forecast is calling for possible showers in the afternoon so I am thinking an early start should give me what I need. Today I have to take time off to sign a lease, that's right, I am no longer homeless. My new address will be 19 Logy Bay Road. Closer to Flatrock, Wallnuts, and just about everything else. Goodbye Mount Pearl!

Anerwayz, yesterday I was out with Matt Scott. Once again we had the place to ourselves. I spent some time figuring out a headsey trad project that will take some significant effort. After a few burns we spied a line of bolts that we didn't know much about. Meh, what's the worst that can happen? We started working this unknown line that starts with what we hoped was the crux. Very technical climbing led to tricky climbing then, thank God, easier climbing. Matt is stupidly strong. He can crimp on nothing, see hold, grab hold, pull to waist, look for next hold. I found myself in the position of cagey veteran. On both routes I was pulling out all sorts of beta trickery. Hip scums, knee bars, a ridiculous drop knee. It was fun. Matt sent in a few burns. I didn't have it in me and couldn't figure things out post crux. The route felt about 12a to me. Matt sent me a text later saying that the guide book pegged it at 10c. Apparently we suck compared to what we used to be able to do, but we're havin' fun. The route in question is just to the right of Something Heinous and is three bolts plus gear. Bring a stick clip. It sucks everything out of you, demanding extremely tight body tension. After pulling the crux to the rest I just couldn't get me heart rate down or breathing in order. The first fifteen feet are just a battle.

So, today is apartment time, will be a huge weight off my shoulders. I will be out climbing for the next few days. It has been kinda lonely down out Main Face this last week. A few bodies should help provide some psych. Anybody heading out?

Don’t Get Frustrated

2009-08-12T22:43:00.000-02:30

I guess most of my posts will be about controlling, tuning, and most importantly listening to your mental state. I’ve been focusing strongly on improving this aspect of my climbing this season. I guess that’s a good excuse for having lost a moderately defined 6-pack to a booster juice belly over 5 months. I could blame it on the stress of exams and a surgery which took me out of physical activity for a few months (I’m grasping for explanations), but “Focusing on training mentally” just has a better ring to it.

So, my mental game has become significantly better this season. Monday, it failed me. I felt scared, threw myself at a climb I knew quite well, and screwed up… on simple moves (not easy, but simple). I did what I shouldn’t do – I got frustrated. Yelled some negative self talk, felt the embarrassment, and got a bit angry. Part of the exercise is to step back and observe what happened from almost a 3rd person point of view. I succeeded in doing this by writing this post. Who knew blogging could be so therapeutic? The happy ending to the sotry is that I did get back on the line and got through it by eventually honing my focus back up to a level where it should be about half way through the climb when the moves felt familiar again.

Paul on the other hand has a different story to tell, but to a similar tone. He’s been eyeing this line as explained by the post previous to this one. I had a TR burn on it that day as well. Top section is great – super classic. He stated that most climbs have a physical struggle you must get through, however this climb has more of a mental struggle. Great route for him or anyone to exercise their focus and attention. I know it’ll work out well for him. Like, come on… he’s climbing over RPs… makes me want to make out with him.

Projects, Projects, Projects!!!

2009-08-10T21:51:00.000-02:30

So, I know I have been going to Flatrock for a number of years now, but man there are so many things left to be done on that little swath of sea cliff. Yesterday Trevor and I worked on one of what I realized today are many attainable projects.

Just to the left of Easy Company 5.10c is a little ditty dubbed the Dark Water project. It is thin. The climbing is all there; sustained crack and face climbing lead to a crux in the 10b range that leads to a good stance and a final bulge that has some of the funnest moves in Flatrock. THere is always a certain bias towards your own routes, but I feel confident in saying that this one is a classic. Really varied movement, funky holds, sustained climbing, really a gem. Two little detail though. First of all the thing is rarely dry, water ours down it. Today were shocked to find only two holds were wet, but on any given day this thing could be a waterfall. Second, as I have previously stated: it is thin. The gear consists of mostly micro nuts, two great cams (right next to each other), two okay cams (see previous bracket), and one shaky ballnut at the beginning.

This is not one for the masses. It is safe, but being above small gear, especially sideways micronuts, takes a degree of mental control. This route is a challenge, I am not completely solid on it and placing the gear gets me pretty pumped. I am certainly not putting up an "easy"

scarefest just to say "Yeah, I climb over RPs, so like, you wanna make out?" a) I would then be a douchbag, b)I would want to kill myself, c) Nat would kill me.

Dammit I need to take out a camera.

Other than that is a laundry list of projects some o which will get done, others might be a little more long term. At the moment the weather is looking wet in the morning. Whatever I see in the morning will determine what happens tomorrow. It looks like it will be too wet for the Dark Water project, but as I said, there are plenty more to put the work into.

Psyched, Weather?

2009-08-09T16:39:00.001-02:30

Finding an apartment is a serious pain in the ass. Seriously, have a cheap one bedroom apartment lying around? Anyways, Andrew Eaton is leaving for Ontario tomorrow (I know Ontario, wtf Andrew? Something about a girlfriend). So he myself and Trevor went slacklining in Bannerman today. I want to give my body a little time to heal up as things were not functioning as they should when I left Squamish...but I really want to go climbing. I have to do the apartment thing in the afternoon/evenings so myself and Trevor "I work nights" Harris might be going for a little climb soon. I really want to just get on some stuff or check out some stuff, see what's possible maybe.

The forecast has been changing on an almost hourly basis. Tomorrow was supposed to be crap and Tuesday good; the opposite is now supposed to happen. It honestly wouldn't surprise me if the Environment Canada meteorological department was three drunk monkeys throwing fruit at weather symbols on the wall. One observer records it all, "Oops! Bobo wiped the banana stain off the rain sticker, I guess it's going to be sunny tomorrow instead." The website changes, Bobo gets a raise; being able to admit you were wrong shows leadership qualities after all.

Ohh.....Bobo!!!

Super Classic + Chocolate Milk - Last Day = ?

2009-08-08T14:35:00.000-02:30

I left Squamish Thursday evening after one of the best experiences of the trip. Originally, I had planned on getting up early and heading over to Crime of the Century alone. Both the early and the Crime parts of this fell apart however as Brian and Carl wanted to check out Exasperator a 5.10c touted as being one of the best routes in Squamish. I agreed, still got up early, waited for everyone else to stir out of bed, thought about going over to Crime went, went into town, and finally got the move on. I had never been to the base of the Grand Wall where this particular route is located, neither had anyone else. Luckily, along the way we picked up Dave.

Dave is one of the most psyched climbers I have ever met. A pretty young guy who just lives to climb. He had just gotten back from the Bugaboos where his heavily gobbied hands suggested he had climbed everything. Dave is the kind of guy who is hardcore, he doesn't pretend to be, doesn't let you know he is, but he is through and through. He talks about extremely significant climbs (oxymoron?) like I talk about what movies I have seen recently. Climbing hard routes and trying anything suggested is just a normal day.

Anyway, we got in the lineup (six people deep on a Thursday afternoon wtf?) for Exasperator. I spent most of the time looking up at the Grand Wall. This is a route that I want to do but is just a little over my head. I thought I was miles away from having the skill set to do that thing, but as it turns out I am not that far below it. Dave gave me a list of routes to do in preparation and it is not much of a stretch to gun for this thing next summer.

Anyway, back to the route they call Exasperator. We saw quite a few people lead this thing, some fell others sent. I was originally very psyched to get on it but the more I waited the more doubts started to enter my psyche. Exasperator is actually a two pitch climb, 30m of 5.10a lead to a no hands rest followed by a 5m 10c crux, 10 more metres of thin finger jams and then a balancey handcrack. The ideal is to conserve gear through the first pitch and do the whole thing in one long climb.

My weaknesses this trip have been: crack climbing, trusting my feet (made all the worse by the heat wave), trusting nuts, and long routes. Damn. There were good rests and a relatively short crux leaving the score 4 to 2.

Brian was eager and went first. He did well through the first pitch and arrived at the chains. As he did we heard that fateful word: "Rock! Rock! Rock!" a mass of pebbles to golf balls rain down. Dave and Carl ran for cover, I was belaying which left my only option to cozy up next to the wall. In moments like these the mind slows things down, having no idea as to if something big was coming I took care of my climber, did what I could to protect myself (not much), and thought "I wonder if this is going to be it?" Luckily it wasn't. Bryan was shaken, Carl was quiet, Dave was pissed, I felt like I was at home. Good ol' Flatrock.

After everything had settled down I put a helmet on and racked up. Everything flowed. I got into a rhythm during the first fifteen feet, clutching precious finger jams and slotting in eight or so nuts and a few cams as I made my way to the first anchor. That pitch was perfect and I was satisfied. I was content to end my Squamish days there, but I should try right. I left the anchor, got a little pumped, managed my gear well and flowed up to the rest before the hand crack elated. The smears felt amazing, the heatwave really had tacked two grades onto everything. The best part was controlling my tunnel vision. At a few points I was pumped and thinking about falling but I committed and more importantly assessed my options. trying to place gear at one point I was about to fall when I tried moving my feet bak into the crack. Later the opposite happened as I utilized face holds after staying in the crack too long.

Exasperator was the best pitch of rock I have ever climbed, a true classic that provided a good challenge and even managed to teach me quite a bit.

We spent the rest of the evening bouldering, Brian was projecting Viper a classic V5. I was elated to find that I could run laps on problems that had stymied me at the beginning of the trip. I wasn't really focusing on the pebble pulling though; I was still riding that Exasperator high. Brian sent, I went back into town for one last chocolate milk and drove away smiling a huge grin and feeling more content than I have ever been.

The 5.10 first pitch

Me breaking down camp

More Changes of Planses

2009-08-05T18:48:00.000-02:30

The rain is going to hold off for a few more days, which doesn't really matter at this point as I have already changed my ticket. The crew I have been climbing with is taking off tomorrow for the better part of a week. Staying here alone in the rain was not that appealing. I've done worse, it was certainly doable, but I am looking forward to taking what I have learned here now and appying it elsewhere. Tomorrow I will try to take care of a few more things that I have really wanted to get after and then pack up the gear for the drive to Victoria. I will be home in a few days, which is cool. I love it here but there are other things to take care of as well, some things that I want to take care of others that I have to take care of. It will be nice to be back on the island. Stay in Squamish or go back home, I'm all smiles either way.

Barely

2009-08-04T19:19:00.000-02:30

The heatwave has finally broken, it has cooled off to about twenty-four degees. If you want to hear more on the ridiculousness that has been the last few weeks, check out

http://sonnietrotter.com/roadlife/

He spells it out pretty clearly.

The bad news is that it looks like the heat will be replaced by rain...for a Newfoundland-esq long time. I have to make some decisions now in the next few hours about how much longer I will be here. Paying for camping covers the change ticket fee so that is not an issue. I really do need to find an apartment, ads posted a half and hour ago on numerous sites are getting 100 views within a half an hour. Competition eh? Anyway, on to the climbing stuff.

The last few days have been productive but short. I was able to do two very different climbs, Mike's Link 2 a 5.12 sport climb want this morning while Climb and Punishment 5.10d was completed yesterday. For Climb we were in the direct sun which was just sappping. I took a fall on an old piton, went to the top and was feeling pretty done, a bout with a tricky 10b earlier had me feeling dragged out. I realized though that I realistically wasn't coming back for this one so I took another go and struggled my way to some anchors, exhausted and beat up but done.

That has been the theme of these last two days, dragging what little is left out into the greasy light. I am beat, I have been getting stupidly tired on the approaches to crags, breathing hard the whole way. Climbing for this long is overtraining and I have been feeling it. This morning I got very pumped on a 10b that I had done several times before. My brain knows it shouldn't be this hard but the body seems convinced. I gave Mike's Link a shot and fell, much more pumped than I expected to be. After doing the belay duty I got back on and concentrated on climbing the first section perfectly to avoid the pump, it is a powerful crux which helped; tips underclings and smearing lead to slopers and the anchor. Save for a post crux foot slip that nearly sent me flying things went well and I was able to eek out another one.

As soon as I hear from Nat I will be making a decision about coming home. It could happen as soon as Thursday, we'll see. Whatever happens, I'll be okay with it. It would be nice to have more time but this apartment thing is stressing me out and I am honestly looking forward to getting on a few things back in Flatrock as well as checking out some of the new stuff. I have a half a dozen projects back home and it will be nice to have some time this season to climb them. Mabye I'll get that time, mabye I'll have to stay here an try projects, either way there are good challanges to be had and good people around. It's all good, all the time.

Countdown

2009-08-02T16:20:00.000-02:30

So it's a rest day whichc areound these parts means checking on'e email at the library, reading, and any other activities that do not interfere with the wonderful regrowth of the body. Originally, I was supposed to be heading down south in two weeks; things have changed. I no longer have an apartment (long, long story) and have to take the red eye on the 13th to begin the house hunting process. Anyone know of a nice one bedroom apartment in town? No complaints though, I am looking forward to the extra time home.

Yesterday I headed out to boulder a bit. I was able to finish up a few problems that had been attempted in the past. Nothing too notable. It was fun to change things up a bit and to feel a bit of the power that bouldering brings out. I might get out once or twice more but I now have to start planning what I am going to do. I will be leaving here for Victoria on the morning of the 12th, so I am then left with nine possible climbing days. Of those days two will likely be rest days, so seven days of rock scaling.

I am not going to get in a rush, I have dozens of projects that I would like to do. The list you leave here with is always longer than the one you some here with. Still there are a few I would like to focus on. We'll see how it goes.

A New Persepctive

2009-07-31T22:23:00.000-02:30

I guess this is the first post by me, and by anyone other than Paul for that matter - Here's to many more. It's been about 2 weeks since my arrival back from Squamish. I won't go into any specifics but I can say for certain that I've gained a cornucopious amount of experience during my short 10 day stay. It's true - the only way to do this is to take the advice of our good friend Arno Iinger and get the hell out of our comfort zone. If anyone has found an easy way to do this, let me know. Immediately. But in all honestly, being on a trip of this scale in a place like Squamish makes the task a little easier through inspiration. From on sighting trad to multi-pitching over multi-hours helps gain confidence. That's a very personal thing. To quote paul, "Climbing is a very selfish activity. The sun will still rise and fall every day completely independent of what you do or do not do. If you climb to show off or to impress others - you're climbing for the wrong reasons." The man has a point. Back to the selfish thing - I've found myself having a lot more confidence today while scouting around the international area with the most beautiful girl ever (oh come on - I'm getting brownie points for saying that). That confidence gave me the ability to go outside my own comfort zone yet again and gain some more experience. Which brings me to my next ramble.

About a month ago during a session with Matt Scott, we eyed a new line (or I think it's a new line) at the international area. It's surrounded by bolted lines on either side. The obvious flake continues from a great belay area to about 7 m to the top - a short but very very sweet line. Today we arrived around 11 am and found chalk all over the line. Not sure if this has been sent yet, but someone is obviously working it. Curious as to who it may be... If it's a project for someone else, peep up and I'll back off. Nontheless I wanted to get a feel for it. Ran up it once on TR, then figured out gear, then did a dummy lead. I await for further instruction...

If You're Going To Do Something...

2009-07-31T20:01:00.001-02:30

The heat is on the decline and I am in high spirits. Things are good ladies and gentlemen. "Hot" is commonly used to describe weather that lies anywhere from sweat inducing to death inducing. I'll say this about Thursday: myself and the Calgary crew went to Murrin to trad; I hopped on a 10c, felt good through the initial section and then hit the sun. Sweat pourned, hands greased, downclimbing happened. Feeling a little disheartened I put the rack down and roamed around for a while. After using the words "it's hot" far more than was needed to get the point across I went to organize the rack. My biners burned me. Yeah, literally. I had left the rack in the sun and when I put it around my neck to organize the mess of trad gear beautifulness my biners actually caused me pain as they touched my belly. I had to put the rack in the shade and come back for the the organizational redpoint. We baiiled soon after and found a little shade in which we could eek out some sport climbing.

That evening we went bouldering and it was good. I have not been feeling super strong lately, and earlier in the trip I had tried Sloppy Poppy a V4 with a topout crux. I had flailed, this time I sent. Darkness and fatigue be damned, I was not coming back to try that thing again.

Yesterday was a good day as well. Some newcomers, Ty and Jennie came into town Wednesday night; the priority of both being to learn trad. We went to the Smoke Bluffs to try some easy stuff. I intended to take a semi rest day, mabye go up some eights. But we settled into an area right next to one of my projects Kangaroo Corner, a short, thin crack in a little corner. I was looking at the thing, even getting a feel for some micro gear I acquired last Christmas when an old school Brit had the audacity to come around the corner and say "Looking at it isn't getting it done." He was smiling as he said it, and damn it if he wasn't right. I was originally going to toprope solo this thing tomorrow morning but that would take away from the lead experiecnce. I wanted to do this thing, well a big part of me did, other parts were tired and nervous.

I called over to Erin and she gave me a belay. The business is all in the first twenty feet. The gear was better than expected and I got to the top pretty easily but I didn't get it done. You see, there are some blast holes on the other side of the arete going into the corner. Hard to picture I know, but even harder not to use them. I stayed in the corner but stemed out to the blast holes that were in reach. The climb felt like 5.10 and when Jennie came over and asked if I had done it Erin said that I had. But I certainly had not. Technically I did the corner, Erin even noted that she had belayed a friend on it and used the holds I had used. But it didn't sit right and if it's not right then it's something that starts with "w" and rhymes with "krong."

I was looking to be challenged and I hadn't been. It would have been easy to say I did it, climbed this grade, did this project, but the important aespect of climbing is the experience, what you go through on your chosen route. I went through very little this time and was left feeling hallow. So as the sun came over the top I decided that it had to be done right.

I sweated up and placed two small nuts, numbers seven and three (BD) before screwing up some beta and doing a dynamic sit back. My mind was not right, a part of me felt like I had done it and that what I was doing was unnecessary. The cool part was that the fall was motivating, with the sun and the fatigue I was now unsure that I could do it. This is a challange, and I decided quite definitively that I wanted to do this route and not that I had already done it. Going up again I was able to place another small chock, commit to some small footholds and discover a few other key footholds before I latched a jug that signified the end of the route. I had been scared and challanged, uncomfortable and forced to focus. It was a good route but a great experience. This time things felt right.

I am heading out to boulder in the next half an hour and taking a rest day tomorrow. It has been a little difficult to keep these posts regular as my time on the internet is determined by time slots at the library. This post was a two session piece of work and just putting down what happend in two days takes up some decent space. Above is the best pic I could find of some of the tips locks on Kangaroo Corner, pretty sad huh?

Good Karma Pays Off

2009-07-29T00:10:00.000-02:30

It is hot, the kind of hot where you squegee your forhead off after coming down from yeat another climb that had you chalking on every move and yet the slopers still didn't seem right.

My plan to climb to climb early and late has actually come to a very welcome bust. I have partners! The first week Trevor was here we found a rope that was left up in Chek Canyon. Knowing who left it we took it along intending to turn it into the local climbing shop. To our surprise we ran into the guy later and gave it back in exchange for his many thanks. Strangely enough, my first night here I ran into two girls we had ran into before. It turns out them, their boyfriends and rope guy are all here together. 2 girls + 2 boys + rope guy = one more needed. So, I have spent the last few days clipping bolts and swimming lakes with this crowd, most of whom work at the same MEC my good friend Andrew Eaton worked at for a couple years.

On Monday we headed up to Chek to sample the routes of one of my favorite crags, the Forgotten Wall. Myself and Gary (rope guy) checked out a few elevens before flailing on his project The Boiler Room 5.12d. I was really caught up in the excitment of having partners and someone to work a project with. The slopers felt like they were coated in butter and the crimps, well... the phrase "exercise in futility" comes to mind. Bah! Fun times though.

Tuesday we made a valiant attempt to climb in the shade. I was worked and took a few tries to finish an 11. Taking the amount of effort this route required into consideration I considered checking myself into the hospital but opted instead to head to the nearby Brohm Lake to cool off and chill.

Today is a rest day, I have to head into Van to get a few things off Derrick Lee. In the meantime here are some pictures from cooler times.

An example of the "grandness" that fills the skylines here.

So much worse than it looks. My left index finger is still numb, this was two weeks ago.

Re-racking at Memorial Ledge during our multi-pittch day.

Back at It

2009-07-25T23:56:00.000-02:30

Leaving for Squamish tomorrow, this one is going to be rough. There are few partner options available so I am looking at this one as a solo trip. Solo trips are good but hard. With no one around to push you there is no motivation but your own desire to go get shit done, and getting shit done when you are alone takes work. Getting to the top of crags, finding anchors, finding the right anchors. You top rope solo the thing a few times then break it all down and respeat the process all over again vowing this time to find the right anchors the first time. That never happens.

Still, it is hard to complain. I am heading back to Squamish and that is something I look forward to. It's like bad pizza, it's still pretty good. The thing I remember the most about my previous trip alone was having a conversation with two guys at penny lane on day 4. It was the first time I had said more than a "thank you" in four days. It was a little trippy.

I'm leaving tomorrow afternoon, seting up camp, getting the groceries, etc and preping for an early morning. Here we go... I'll let you know how it turns out.